What to do if interior doors slam loudly when closing

If your door slams due to a draft or simply when closing, then there is now a simple and cheap solution to solve this problem. We will look at the problem in photo examples of eliminating this effect on an interior door.

The unpleasant sound of a slamming door occurs when the door leaf hits the frame. Hardly anyone will like this sound, it’s annoying, and there’s nothing good for the door itself, especially if it’s glazed. There is a risk that the glass may not hold up.

This can be solved by using self-adhesive seals on the selected part of the box, it’s simple, but there are some minor subtleties.

I’ll say right away that if you initially plan to avoid the sound of a slamming door, then the seals should be installed during the installation of the interior door, at least during the installation of the lock and its strike plate.

Install a door closer

It is he who holds the door, slowing it down before colliding with the jamb.

How are closers different?

The products are designed for different door weights. This is the main criterion; it is indicated in the name or instructions.

Frost-resistant closers operate at sub-zero temperatures: some down to –15, others down to –25 °C and below. The intercom door at the entrance will no longer slam.

Models with a lock-open position (LOP) will keep the door open when you need to bring in a sofa or take out large debris after renovation.

Now let's look at the available adjustments.

• Closing speed - from the open state to an angle of 15°.
• The closing speed is from the 15° position until the door is completely closed.
• Closing delay - slowdown several times. You will have time to roll up the stroller with your child.
• Wind brake - the door moves slowly, does not swing open or slam.

Each closer has its own set of functions.

Interior doors bang with their handles against the walls and ruin the wallpaper. What should I do?

Use door stops

They will stop the door before it hits the wall. There will be no marks left on the wallpaper, and the handle coating will not peel off.

There are 2 types of limiters:

1. Wall mounted ones are made in the form of a pin with a rubber pad. They stop the door at the extreme point.
2. Floor-mounted ones allow you to set any angle of limitation. Such stops are more compact.

How to calm a room door in a draft?

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The front door slams loudly

The widespread use of metal doors has led to the actualization of the problem of noise when opening and closing the door, which often develops into real noise, haunting the residents of an apartment building.

In an effort to save on the design of the front door, tenants install models that lack any sound insulation, and drafts speed up the movement of the door many times over, causing a bang. This problem is relevant for absolutely all types of apartment buildings, both panel and brick, leading to conflicts between neighbors, even calling the local police officer. Meanwhile, the best solution would be to investigate the causes of noise when using the door and eliminate them.

Eliminating drafts

This problem is especially relevant in suburban housing, since there the front door often opens directly onto the street or into a cold, unheated vestibule. Although even in an apartment building, a draft from the door is a very unpleasant phenomenon, even if the entrance is warm. After all, cigarette smoke and other unpleasant odors penetrate into the apartment with it.

Traditional sealing involves gluing a self-adhesive seal in the form of a rubber band around the perimeter of the box. Unfortunately, this method is not very reliable.

• Firstly, during active use of the structure, the seal quickly becomes unusable and needs to be replaced.
• Secondly, the slightest distortion will lead to the fact that the seal will not fit tightly to the door and will not be able to perform its function efficiently.

Why does the iron door slam loudly?

A metal door can make loud noises in several cases, namely:

• Errors were made during installation of the structure.
• The doors do not have closers or their operation is incorrectly adjusted.
• There is no filling inside the door leaf.
• The door is not soundproofed.
• The magnet in the front door lock causes the door to move faster when closing.
• There are no seals on the door and frame.
• There is a draft on the landing.

Whatever the reason for the loud noise when using the door, the only solution to the problem may be to eliminate the source of the noise, which requires an individual approach in each individual case.

"New thing"

The most important and most effective thing that can be done with a noisy door is to change the locks and screws to “quiet” ones. There are two ways to go here. The first is to go to an auto parts store and purchase a finished part there that is coated with rubber or any other similar insulating material. The second is to activate the Kulibin mode and make locks and hinges yourself based on those already in the car.

To do this, it is enough to divide a little rubber into the contacting metal parts. Or you can simply wrap the “noisy” elements in a couple of layers with regular blue electrical tape.

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Set up the closer operation

Almost every owner of metal doors, when purchasing them, was faced with the manufacturer’s offer to install a door closer. However, many, having decided to save money, abandoned this functional element, which in practice turns out to be simply necessary for comfortable operation.

The closer is a mechanism that ensures automatic closing of the sash, while the device settings allow you to select the speed of the door movement, and therefore the force with which the sash will touch the frame. If your door to an apartment or entrance makes a loud noise when opening and closing, then installing a door closer can solve the problem.

In some cases, a loud slam of a door equipped with a door closer appears when the device is not adjusted correctly. By slowing down the movement of the closer, you will ensure a smooth connection of the sash to the frame, which will significantly reduce the noise level. In this case, a compromise solution involves finding a balance between the speed of the door and the noise level it produces.

Construction portal No. 1

After the adhesive has dried, the surface of the seams and the sealed cracks are carefully sanded with fine sandpaper. As a result of such a defect, the door may change its geometric shape. As a result, it simply stops closing. In the first case, the door is disassembled. The fastening pins are knocked out using a metal cylindrical guide. The second method looks simpler, but affects the appearance of the door. Metal corners are attached to both sides of the fabric at the joints of the strapping parts (corner joints). It is enough to simply return it to the correct shape using a wedge placed below. In this case, you need to make sure that the screws on both sides do not meet and do not come out on the other side of the canvas.

Soundproofing the door

A loud bang during door operation may occur due to the lack of filler inside the leaf, which means it rattles like a tin can, even with a small impact force. This problem can be eliminated by soundproofing the canvas. For these purposes, dense material is laid inside the door - mineral wool boards, expanded polystyrene, polystyrene foam, isolon. Such a filler will effectively dampen vibration from the touch of metal parts of the structure, so that the sound of a closing door will be less loud.

In addition, a seal can solve the problem. It is a rubber or silicone tape that is fixed around the perimeter of the door leaf and frame. As a rule, such soundproofing material has its own adhesive backing, so installing it on the door is not difficult. The seal ensures a soft connection of the door leaf to the frame, helping to eliminate loud noise.

Silicone shock absorbers

Silicone shock absorbers are produced on a self-adhesive basis and are used as an addition to the main shock absorption systems. Such a circle is separated from the base and glued to the end of the body or facade.

Some furniture makers limit themselves only to silicone shock absorbers, but they will not ensure smooth closing of doors; they will only muffle the sound of the door when it is closed.

Adjusting the magnetic lock

Magnetic locks installed on metal entrance doors ensure automatic closing of the door. Often the strength of the magnet is so pronounced that the sound from the contact of the door and frame becomes very loud, causing discomfort to residents of the first floors.

To correct the situation, experts recommend changing the time settings for applying voltage to the lock magnet so that it fixes the metal plate of the front door after it is connected to the frame. This solution is only possible if the structure is equipped with a closer.

What to do if neighbors slam the door hard

When your own front door slams loudly, it worries much less, especially since you can always find an effective solution. However, the situation changes dramatically when the source of annoying noise is the neighbors on the landing, whose door is not soundproofed and rattles like an iron bucket.

What can be done in this case?

The first thing you need to do is inform your neighbors that you are experiencing discomfort from the noise made when closing the doors. It is better to do this peacefully, simultaneously offering assistance in finding effective solutions. If the cause of the problem is insufficient door equipment, then you can advise your neighbors to a store where they can buy everything they need.

Source: www.dverild.ru

Analysis of difficulties using photo examples

First, let's buy a self-adhesive seal, better suited in color to your door. Since my doors had already been installed for a long time, I chose the narrowest “E” shaped (there is also a shape in the form of the conventional letter “D”).

Personally, I only needed to solve the problem of the door slamming, so three meters of sealant were taken for two doors, since almost a meter of material contains two strips that simply separate.

As I wrote, we separate the tapes.

Separating the wax tape from the sticky part, we begin to stick it on the selected part of the box (the vestibule), where the door leaf touches the frame.

For the most aesthetic appearance, the edge of the seal at the junction with another segment of it can be cut at an angle of 45 0. I didn’t do this myself, I just glued it end-to-end, but you can decide for yourself.

Then we also stick it on the transverse part of the box, this completely solves the problem of door knocking.

Even one strip of material is glued to the door frame from the lock side, eliminating the problem of the door slamming, but a gap appears at the top, for this purpose glue is also applied at the top.

If you have a door with a threshold, then with the help of a seal you can not only get rid of the door slamming, but also increase sound insulation and avoid the slightest draft. To do this, the door frame is glued all around, only the door frame on the hinge side is glued with a seal, not in a selected part of the frame (as before), but perpendicular to it close to it.

This is done so that the door leaf presses it naturally.

That’s the whole method of improving your own door, but here another problem appeared, which I also decided to show.

To prevent kitchen doors from slamming or knocking

To prevent kitchen doors from slamming or knocking, a number of circumstances should be taken into account at the stage of ordering a kitchen. We are all trying to save money by furnishing our new home, or a home after renovation, with new furniture. We spend a lot of money on a new kitchen, but during the design of the furniture and drawing up the design project, we try to focus the designer or seller on the wrong things. We focus our attention on the aesthetic properties of kitchen furniture rather than on the more trivial, for many, in their opinion, boring and trivial: technical and operational. Sometimes when ordering a kitchen, we are guided by the rule of total savings on fasteners, giving preference to expensive frame materials (chipboard for cabinets), work surface (we choose nice German countertops) and, of course, the facade (we order kitchens from solid wood or fashionable acrylic MDF).

You don’t have to be a specialist or have a technical education to come to the conclusion that in order to prevent doors (facades) in the kitchen from slamming (knocking), you need to worry about the quality of furniture hinges. However, many, having ordered a kitchen in Minsk with basic, cheap fittings, subsequently try to correct the mistakes made at the stage of developing a design project using improvised methods. The kitchen furniture is installed, the facades are pleasing to the eye with their appearance, but the sharp bangs when they close are alarming. And what do new owners of kitchen sets do? They flock to furniture fittings stores in search of shock absorbers that can absorb shocks.

One of the most popular cheap products from such retail outlets in Minsk are silicone shock absorbers. Do they have a positive effect? How much time will they give before the annoying slamming of facades in the kitchen begins to hurt your ears again? Let's be honest - not for long. Of course, if you're lucky and purchase large-diameter silicone shock absorbers, you'll have a little more time to spare.

We’ll immediately give the first advice to consumers who are no longer able to fix anything in their kitchen project. To prevent kitchen doors from knocking, it is better not to trust the adhesive base of such shock absorbers, but to attach them to the edges of kitchen cabinets with glue. Follow the gluing technology: first lubricate both surfaces with glue, then, after waiting a minute interval, attach with force in the required place.

For those who are reading this material and do not want the doors in their future kitchen to slam and knock, we will recommend another method. Check with your contractor on the type of kitchen furniture hinges that will be installed on your cabinets. If you choose to install hinges with built-in or overhead closers on facades from such luminaries of the furniture fittings market as Hettich or Blum, this problem will not exist for almost the entire life of the kitchen. Only one “but” can stop you: the cost of such loops. At retail, such Austrian-made hinges are offered at around three dollars apiece. If we take into account that in an average corner kitchen there will be about twenty to thirty hinges in a standard room of a frame house, then the amount will add up to a considerable amount.

Moreover, a custom-made corner kitchen means that you will use not only simple overhead hinges 110 degrees, but also hinges for corner cabinets (175 degrees) and cabinets with diagonal and beveled doors (plus 45 degrees, minus 45 degrees). The cost of branded high-quality hinges with a closer and an opening angle different from the basic 110 degrees is almost twice as expensive!

The secret to securely attaching hinges

Hinge Cup Attachment

You can secure the hinge cup to the door using self-tapping screws, but there is a more reliable method of fastening using special spacer plugs and screws.

To install the plugs, you need to drill two holes with a diameter of 8 mm. Find out if such a service is provided in the place where you order drilling for awnings.

Mounting the strike plate

The strike plate can be secured to the side wall using self-tapping screws, Euroscrews, and the most reliable way is with Euroscrews of smaller diameter through spacer plugs.

The structure of the chipboard is loose and a self-tapping screw or Euroscrew may eventually break out of the chipboard and you won’t be able to screw it back in, you’ll have to glue in the chips, re-drill, and then, it won’t last long, you’ll have to change the side wall. Only a bar for spacer plugs will ensure long-lasting and reliable fastening.

Drilling is done with a drill with a diameter of 5 mm, similar to drilling for Euro screws.

Source

How to stop your front door from slamming

How to make sure that the front door in an apartment or entrance does not slam? The issue concerns owners of not only residential but also commercial premises. When a metal door leaf hits the frame loudly and hard, it irritates not only the ears. Regular, often repeated knocking destroys the decorative coating and metal, which significantly shortens the service life of the product. Options for solving the problem are to glue the rubber sealing contours, if the manufacturer did not do this, and (or) install a door closer.

Seals

There are several types that differ in shape and are designed to bridge gaps of different thicknesses:

• C, K, E-shaped – for cracks no larger than 3 mm;
• P, V-shaped will close gaps up to 5 mm;
• O, D-shaped are designed for gaps up to 7 mm.

Seals are installed in pairs, depending on the size of the gap, for example, E and P-shaped, V and D-shaped. Rubber contours soften the impact of the door leaf on the frame, prevent metal surfaces from touching and muffle the sound.

Closer

Another name for the door closing mechanism. It is installed in the upper part of the door leaf next to the hinge - called the top closer. The device can also be bottom and hidden. Provides automatic closing and tight fit of the canvas to the box. The mechanism requires careful handling. When changing the temperature regime, you need to adjust the closer (its closing speed). This will extend the life of the mechanism.

The combination of rubber seals and a door closer is an ideal option to avoid door knocking and extend its service life.

We will manufacture custom-made entrance metal structures for a specific opening. The client can choose the package themselves. If necessary, we will install a peephole, an additional lock, and a door closer.

Before placing an order, call a measurer. The specialist will take measurements and provide detailed advice on products. You can find out more information by phone or order a call back.

Production of custom-made steel entrance doors according to your dimensions

How to remove the front door from its hinges

How to select and change the lock cylinder of the front door

How and with what to insulate a metal entrance door with your own hands

Source: www.stalnie-dveri.su

Big gap

The complete opposite of the previous defect is an overly wide shutter. Even in a fully closed position, there remains a gap between the door and the hatch. The main cause of this problem is the thinning of the seal during prolonged use. If this is indeed the case, the rubber band needs to be replaced. Before gluing a new tape, make sure that the gap around the entire perimeter is the same; if there are places where it is wider, you need to use an additional lining.

Often the problem of a large gap is solved by replacing the old, thinned seal with a new one

Another reason could be a similar defect, as with a tight shutter. How to adjust the backlash of an aluminum door if the tongue and the hole for the bolt entry do not match? In this case, you need to bend the antennae of the plate to a position that will ensure a tighter fit of the door to the frame. Less often, the situation can be corrected by adjusting the tension of the door sash by tightening the hinges. From time to time it is recommended to check the position of the door and adjust it.

Regularly renew the lubricant, this will extend the service life of all structural parts.

Timely adjustment of metal doors, done by yourself, is the key to long service life of the structure, protection from breakdowns and ensuring safety for all residents of the house.

Neighbors: how to wean yourself from the habit of slamming doors

We live in a communal apartment. A girl rents a room in our apartment. Without bad habits and well-mannered. But there is one big BUT. She slams the door very hard. The walls shake and objects in the closet fall. My neighbor's pensioner's glasses are rattling. They told her in a civilized manner that she was clapping very hard. Then they called the owner of the room she was renting. A retired neighbor told her everything and even showed her how to close the door so as not to slam. But she continues to do it. When she slams the door every 2 minutes, my nerves go away. How can I wean her off this? I already wanted to pour glue into her lock for a moment, it was mean and low of course.

Good lubrication

The first thing you should pay attention to is whether the moving elements of the door are well lubricated. Not often, but it still happens that the door slams hard for precisely this reason. In addition, lack of lubrication can cause rust to form, which in turn leads to sagging and squeaking. Without timely lubrication, the performance of the door may also deteriorate in winter.