How to prepare a doorway for installing an interior door?


High-quality installation of interior doors is carried out according to certain rules. If you study the issue in advance, you will not make offensive mistakes in repairs, the dimensions of doors and openings will be correct, and you will also gain knowledge that will be useful if you want to install interior doors yourself.

What do you think - is it possible to do the installation right away if there are old doors, new doors and all the fittings have already been purchased? If you are not renovating your apartment, then of course!

But what if the apartment is being renovated? Here you should understand that the mistakes that repair teams make when leveling walls, laying flooring, in the size of openings, incorrect floor joints, and so on, can seriously complicate installation, and further reworking of the repair can cost a pretty penny!

Installation of interior doors should be carried out according to these rules:

  • The insertion of hinges, locks and fittings is done using milling cutters and templates (some experienced craftsmen do not use templates, this is allowed)
  • Fastening of platbands is done using a hairpin gun using microstuds or small nails
  • The joints of the platbands, frames and extensions are smooth and cut on a professional miter saw at 45 or 90 degrees
  • Modern fasteners do a great job without the exposed through-hole fastening that ruins the look and isn't everyone's cup of tea. Therefore, fastening is usually done in a hidden way under the hinges and the strike plate using long screws and dowels
  • When opened, the blade stays in place and does not slam, since a laser level is used for precise vertical and horizontal calibration
  • Dust removal and garbage collection is carried out

Door opening dimensions

Opening width

The door leaf is usually 60/70/80/90 cm wide. The correct width of the opening is the width of the canvas +8 or +9 cm (if the thickness of the box in its narrowest part is from 1.5 cm to 2.5), or +10 cm (if the thickness of the box in its narrowest part is 2.5 cm and above ).

Opening height

The correct height of the opening is the height of the door leaf + 6cm. from the finished floor, that is, 206 cm. Doors to a bathroom with a high threshold (bathtub and toilet) can be 190 cm high, so the correct opening height is 196 cm.

Here are some examples of correct openings:

  • Canvas 80x200 (cm.) - opening 89x206 (cm.)
  • Canvas 70x200 - opening 79x206
  • Canvas 60x200 - opening 69x206
  • Canvas 60x190 - opening 69x196


The dimensions of the doorways need to be determined in advance and it is very important to constantly monitor your team during the repair process.
Width of door leaves for different rooms

If you have the opportunity to plan the width of doors and openings in advance and have questions about what door width to choose, then follow these recommendations:

  • doors in rooms are usually made 80 cm wide so that furniture can be brought in/out. Width 90cm. This happens very rarely because such canvases are heavy and can sag on their hinges over time.
  • bathroom doors are usually made 60-70cm so that a 60cm thick washing machine can easily pass through the opening. Keep in mind that 60cm. The door assembly has a clear opening of approximately 58cm. due to the recesses in the door frame.
  • The door leaf for the kitchen is usually made 70-80cm. It is also necessary to take into account that handles on both sides may interfere with passage into the kitchen.
  • in the dressing room they usually make the width 60-70cm.

When is it necessary to install extensions?

It is recommended to purchase extensions if the thickness of the wall in the opening is greater than the thickness of the door frame. The thickness of the door frame is 7-7.5 cm. You can, of course, stick wallpaper on the ends of the walls, but it will look out of date, and there will be nothing to nail the trim on to the other side of the wall.

If you install extensions and trim on the front door, you can beautifully decorate the slopes from the inside of the apartment. This method of finishing slopes is especially convenient to use when you have replaced the front door, but do not plan to repair the walls. The color of the trims and trims can be selected, for example, to match the interior MDF panel using samples that are brought to your home by a measurer.

The width of standard extensions according to the warehouse program is usually 10/12/15/20 cm. If your walls are very thick (more than 20 cm), then the extensions need to be joined in width or order non-standard extensions from production, which will cost much more due to delivery and individuality of the order.

Which side of the door should the extensions be installed on?

It depends entirely on how you planned the opening. Usually, if your door opens into a room, then the frame is placed flush with the room wall, and the extensions will be located in the corridor.

If you do the opposite, the door will not open completely (it will hit the door). Sometimes they put up with this so that the doors look the same - ALL extensions to the corridor or all extensions to the rooms. Therefore, this is already a matter of convenience and design, taking into account the future arrangement of furniture in the apartment.

What else is important to know?

Not every person will be able to install a door frame efficiently the first time. But don't despair. Because many flaws can be eliminated.

  1. If there is an unsightly seam, you can close the joint between the laminate and the door frame with a plinth or a special flexible threshold.
  2. If the box does not fit into the opening, then the posts and crossbars can be trimmed a little.
  3. Platbands allow you to beautifully seal the gap between the door frame and the wall. If their width is not enough, you will have to plaster and decorate the gap.
  4. To install an interior door frame in a concrete or brick wall, it is impossible to do without a hammer drill. If you are installing an MDF door frame first on slats, use a drill to make holes and only then use a hammer drill.
  5. Attaching a door frame to a wooden wall is much easier than to other materials. In this case, a hammer drill for drilling holes is not useful. You just need to screw the door frame to the wall using anchors. The main thing to consider is that over time, wooden buildings can shrink significantly.
  6. To facilitate the installation process, special installation systems for door frames were created. Thanks to them, the structure can be placed in walls made of any material without using wedges and spacers. This kit includes hidden mounting fasteners, detailed step-by-step instructions and diagrams. Using the system, even a beginner can insert a door frame.

Scheme for opening interior doors

If in one corridor some doors open into the corridor, and some into rooms, the closed doors will look different due to the characteristics of the door frame. If the doors are next to each other, and at the same time one opens inward and the other outward, then the height of the upper trims will not match!

This is what the door looks like from the common corridor, which opens into the corridor, that is, towards us:

This is what the door looks like that opens into the room, that is, inward:

It is necessary to ensure that the cloth does not cover the switch when torn off. It is very desirable that the doors do not intersect with their trajectories. In the bathroom, it is advisable to provide for the door to open 180 degrees for quick ventilation after taking water procedures and so that the open door does not interfere with free movement around the apartment.

A door open 90 degrees should not block the opening of an adjacent door.

In order not to waste time coordinating the opening of doors with the craftsmen during installation, make a drawing diagram on a piece of paper in advance and coordinate it with the craftsmen.

At what height from the floor should the door be?

The standard height is 1 cm from the finished floor. As for bathroom doors, it is not recommended to do less than 1 cm, so as not to disturb the air flow. If you have plastic windows, do not forget to make supply valves for air from the street so as not to increase the air humidity in the apartment too much when the windows are closed.

The order of installation of interior doors when renovating an apartment

In order to protect the wooden parts of the doors from warping due to high humidity during repairs, it is necessary to do the installation after ALL finishing work, including in adjacent rooms. After installing the doors, you can install floor skirting boards.

It should be understood that early installed doors may be accidentally damaged by tools during the repair process. Tile or wallpaper adhesive, especially plaster, takes quite a long time to dry, releasing moisture into the room. Increasing the humidity above 70% for several days increases the risk that the doors will pick up moisture from the air, swell and stop closing properly.

However, if you like to bathe or shower frequently, humidity does not pose any threat, since the bathroom is quickly ventilated.

Installation of interior doors should be done if you already have a finished floor!

Without doors, it is much easier to lay floor coverings, and it is easier to install them later, with a clear connection of the platbands to the floor.

If you first install the box directly on the screed (main floor), then it is impossible to place the floor covering under the box, since it is already on the floor. In addition, it is difficult for the master to correctly calculate the lower gap of the door from the subfloor, taking into account the future covering, especially if the floor has not been leveled.

If you did everything correctly and did the installation after laying the finished floor, it will not be difficult to replace the floor - you just need to pull out the laminate or parquet from under the door posts and slide in a new covering. In this case, the racks will not lower but will remain hanging.

How to install a door between rooms: inserting hinges

The number of loops is calculated for each editing episode separately. Their number depends on the dimensions of the door, its weight and the material from which it is made. Most often, such structures are mounted on 2 hinges, but the number of these elements can be greater (for example, 3).

The hinges are installed taking into account a certain distance from the edges of the door leaf, which is 25-30 cm. It is important to remember that a door made of natural wood may have knot cuts. It is strictly not recommended to install hinges at such points. The installation of these elements begins with their fixation to the interior door. How to install loops correctly? To answer this question, you need to study the order of work.

First of all, it is necessary to select the necessary points at which the hinges will be installed. Next, the part is applied to the desired location and markings are made. An ordinary well-sharpened pencil is suitable for marking. After completing the marking, remove the layer of wood from the inside side of the door (in those places where the hinges will be attached). The thickness of the wood layer that needs to be removed is calculated based on the thickness of the loop.


Inserting hinges when installing an interior door

The next stage is the installation of this fittings for interior doors. After fixing with screws, the door hinge should be located on the same plane as the wooden surface. If the product is below the general level or, conversely, above, this indicates an installation error.

After adjusting the canvas, the places where the mating parts of the loops will be located are marked. Next, you should make a recess and install the element, securing it with self-tapping screws.

If the doorway is much higher (wider) than the door

A common mistake made by repair teams is openings that are too high, because the maximum height should not be higher than 208~209 cm, or better yet, 206 cm. from the floor covering.

Sometimes in new buildings a standard opening can be 217-220 cm high. This is explained by the fact that many customers make heated floors and the height after their installation becomes standard. If no one paid attention to this during the repair and a situation arose when the upper casing does not cover the opening.

Solution: if your opening is higher than necessary, but there is no way to reduce the opening, glue the wallpaper lower before installing the doors, or order high capitals instead of the upper casing, but usually they are installed on the side of the corridor. A more thorough way is to lower the height of the opening using drywall and wooden blocks and then glue the wallpaper.

Another option: if the platbands are flat in shape, saw off at the joints at 90 degrees, and the upper platband is cut from extensions that are wider. Some customers get out of the situation this way. The disadvantage is that sometimes the additional strips are thicker than the platband, and that if you do all the doors in the apartment this way, it will look a little wild)).

If the opening is wider than required by at least 2-3 cm on the sides, the foam seam will not have sufficient strength, and this is important, since the mounting foam helps maintain even gaps and ensures the overall resistance of the door to loads.

Solution: narrow the doorway with wooden beams, boards or using foam blocks and tile adhesive.

A few tips for novice carpenters

People say that “the first pancake is lumpy.” Therefore, those who have done the work of installing the box themselves for the first time should not be upset by the mistakes made, which in most cases can be easily corrected.

  • An unsightly joint between the laminate and the door threshold can be hidden with a plinth or metal trim.
  • If the doorway turns out to be smaller, it is easier to trim the posts and crossbars of the frame, but on the condition that you can adjust the size of the door leaf. Otherwise, you will have to widen the doorway.
  • If the width of the casing is not enough for the gap between the frame and the wall, the latter is plastered and then finished with the same material that was used before the door was installed. Therefore, in new buildings, doors are installed first, and then the walls are finished.
  • When installing a box made of wood or MDF into walls made of concrete or brick, first drill a hole in the rack with a drill or screwdriver, and then drill the wall with a hammer drill.
  • Special mounting systems simplify the process of installing the box - there is no need to use wedges. Detailed instructions for their use are included in the packaging.

  • In new houses, the door cannot be attached directly to the wall due to possible shrinkage. Here, first a wooden block is attached to the opening, and a door block is attached to it.

In conclusion, installing a door frame in an opening is not such a difficult job that can be done by yourself in just a few hours. But the effect of this is significant - the family budget will save approximately 3,000 rubles on each door (the average price for installing a door frame by professional builders is indicated).

Sources

  • https://ODveryah.ru/montazh/ustanovka-korobki-mezhkomnatnoj-dveri
  • https://www.rmnt.ru/story/doors/pravilnaja-ustanovka-mezhkomnatnyx-dverey.1636908/
  • https://StroyGuru.com/dveri/ustanovka-dvernoj-korobki-dlya-mezhkomnatnoj-dveri-svoimi-rukami/
  • https://materialyinfo.ru/ustanovka-mezhkomnatnyx-dverej-svoimi-rukami/
  • https://o-dveryah.ru/mezhkomnatnye/ustanovka-korobki/
  • https://dvernoiguru.ru/ustanovka/kak-sobrat-dvernuyu-korobku-svoimi-rukami/

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How to straighten a crooked doorway?

First, you need to check the walls to the right and left of the opening for humps/depressions by attaching a long rule, a plank or a flat board to the wall. Humps are especially common closer to the floor. Even one small hump will prevent the platband from fitting tightly to the wall.

To solve this problem there is only one option: to plaster and level the walls. If you don’t want or can’t level the walls in the entire apartment or wall, then do it only around the openings (about 50cm wide) and glue the wallpaper.

Then you need to check the verticality of the walls using a laser or bubble level. The ends of the openings must be parallel, the walls must be smooth and strictly vertical. If the opening is crooked, the walls are inclined, there are humps or depressions, act according to the circumstances.

If you realize that the opening is crooked and moves away from the vertical by more than 1 cm, you can level the walls with plaster according to the beacons , aligning them vertically and re-glue the wallpaper. As you already understand, this is the best and most difficult solution!

How to install a door in a crooked opening?

But what if there is no way to level the wall? Let's say the wall in which the door is supposed to be installed is blocked from the vertical by more than 1 cm per two meters of the height of the opening. Then you have three options:

  • Install the door frame along the plane of the wall, the trim will fit snugly against the wall, but the door will also be tilted and will probably close on its own, slam, etc.
  • Install the box vertically in level, with the platbands adjacent in the upper part and moving away from the wall by the amount of deviation of the wall from the vertical in the lower part (or vice versa), worsening the aesthetics.
  • Buy a door with telescopic platbands and install it straight, slightly deeper into the wall and, where necessary, pulling the platbands out of the grooves. This is a good solution to the problem unless you need to open 180 degrees. The fact is that when the door is opened more than 100 degrees, the hinges will be pulled out.

The choice is yours, in all cases there are disadvantages and there are advantages, because it is a compromise.

The door catches the frame: how to fix the problem?

If, after installation, the door leaf rubs against the frame, the door closes with difficulty or does not close tightly, it is necessary to find out the reason.

Led the box

In such a situation, the first thing to check is the correct installation and reliability of the door hinges. If they are not the reason, it means that the box was deformed as a result of swelling of the construction foam due to significant temperature changes.

To eliminate the resulting defect, the door frame must be drilled through and connected to the concrete wall using long screws or anchors. The holes are then decorated with plugs.

Led wooden door leaf

In this situation, it is necessary to remove the locking mechanism and lightly sand the end part of the blade using sandpaper secured to a flat wooden block. During the grinding process, the contact of the blade with the box profile is periodically checked. After reaching the required gap, grinding stops, the treated area is tinted and varnished, and the door lock is installed in its place.

What if the door is located close to the wall?

In such an opening, one wall is perpendicular to the other wall, and it is necessary to reduce the width of the platbands and attach them close to the wall on both sides. But by reducing the width of the trim we still spoil the appearance of the door, see photo:


However, there are several other options to solve this problem:

  1. If the renovation has already been done and wallpaper is glued to the walls, you can screw a wooden beam with a section of 3x6, 3x4 or 4x4 (no more) to such a wall. It becomes possible to install an entire platband close to the wall.
  2. Extend the doorway by at least 5 cm from the wall and cut the same distance from the opposite wall of the opening at the repair stage. The platband will be located at a short distance from the wall, which looks much more beautiful.
  3. During the renovation stage, increase the doorway by 5 cm on both sides and order doors 10 cm wider, for example 70 cm. instead of 80cm..

Installing an interior threshold

The door leaf is located in the opening closer to the part of the wall where the door will open, so the threshold covering the joint of the floor when the door is closed should be located under the door leaf and then it will not be visible when the door is closed, see photo:

A common mistake made by repair crews is incorrect placement of the sills! To avoid such a mistake, draw a diagram in advance for opening all the doors and give it to the foreman before laying the finished floors and laying the floor tiles.

Installation of interior doors in the bathroom

For living rooms and kitchens, it is recommended to order doors 2 meters high. For bathrooms in new houses, a 1m high sheet is often required. 90cm. due to the presence of waterproofing and special high thresholds. If you missed this point and did not order doors with a height of 190 cm, then you need to expand the opening in height or, as an option, you can shorten the door by cutting it from below using a router or parquet saw.

If you increase the height of the opening, then the top mark of the doors to the bathroom and interior doors will be at different levels. If the door is cut from the bottom, the panel pattern is lowered. Therefore, sometimes it is better to order smooth doors for bathrooms.

A common mistake is making a threshold to the bathroom from a wooden door frame, as the aesthetics and ventilation of the wet room are disrupted, and in the future, mold may appear.

Installation

If the work is done without an assistant, it is more convenient to mount the frame without the door leaf and hang the door later. With this method, the frame needs 1-2 spacers, which can be cut from a block or other available material. To prevent the ends of the spacer from damaging the box lamination, wrap them in fabric.

Step-by-step installation of the box is performed as follows:

  1. Raise the frame and install it in the opening. If the door does not have a threshold, then you need to leave a technological gap between the end and the floor. Its size is 1.5-2 mm. You need to place wood chips of this thickness under the edges of the box.
  2. To fix the box, drive small wedges between it and the wall in the upper corners (side and top). Check the structure for verticality and horizontality, and for compliance of the edges with the plane of the wall.
  3. Install a spacer across the opening. Secure the box with wedges next to it.
  4. Drill holes at two points on the sides to secure the door to the wall. Use a hammer drill to make holes in the concrete and drive capsules of dowels or anchors into them. Screw in the fastening screws.
  5. Fill the gaps between the frame and the wall with polyurethane foam. Before this process, it is necessary to cover the frame with wide construction tape, since foam can get on its surface. Fill gaps to ½ of their depth: foam expands greatly. It will take 24 hours to cure. The spacer wedges must be cut or removed.

If the width of the box is 3 cm or more less than the opening, then additional installation will be required before installing it. These are bars of the required thickness, which are secured with dowels to the wall inside the opening. After this, install the frame of interior doors with your own hands according to the above instructions.

Preparing interior door openings

Polyurethane foam will not be able to stick if there is a lot of dust at the ends of the doorway. It is necessary to remove dust or prime the ends of the opening walls if they are covered with gypsum putty or if the walls are made of gypsum/aerated concrete blocks.

If there are open round cavities and voids at the end of the opening, they can be sealed with plaster, leaving marks with a pencil so that the craftsman does not drive fasteners into them. Holes for fastening the door frame are drilled between these cavities into the lintels.

If the walls of the opening are made of plasterboard, then must be placed in the metal profile at the vertical ends of the opening. It is needed for reliable fastening of doors with self-tapping screws through the hinges and the mate, and it also imparts rigidity to the walls in the area of ​​the opening. Doors installed in openings without reinforcement are doomed to short-term use and will quickly sag.

If a block is placed inside the metal profile and the ends are not sewn up with anything, then this is not correct. Foam does not adhere well to galvanized metal. Peeling may occur over time. To avoid this, strips of gypsum board or gypsum board or plywood are screwed to the ends. Foam adhesion to these materials is excellent.

It is not allowed to leave voids between sheets of drywall in the upper part of the opening. The fact is that the top box is often very bent or bent when wedging, and to straighten it, for example with the help of foam, a filled end of the wall is required.

Preparing the opening for sliding doors

For those wishing to install sliding sliding doors, the opening height for a standard door should be approximately 202 cm. and the width of the opening should be equal to the width of the door leaf or a couple of centimeters wider. In the process of finishing the opening with extensions and platbands for the portal, its dimensions should become smaller than the door leaf.

At a height of 207 cm. up to 212cm. there should be no voids from the floor in the opening, since a wooden beam with a section of 5x5 cm and a length of approximately 190 cm will be horizontally fixed here, to which an aluminum top rail with rollers will be attached.

Measurements

The quality of further work depends on the thoroughness of the measurements. The door opening, even after finishing, may have deviations from the vertical and horizontal, and the frame will have to be adjusted in height and width. To save yourself from unnecessary work, measurements should be made as follows:

  1. Using a tape measure, measure the width of the opening at a height of 10-15 cm from the floor and repeat the measurements at a height of about 20 cm from the top of the opening. If a difference is found in two measurements, then the smaller value should be taken as the width.
  2. In the same way, measure the height of the door: at a distance of 10-20 cm from the side walls of the opening. Take the smaller value as the height.

When purchasing ready-made doors, it may turn out that there is no model that exactly matches the size of the opening or that the door you like is not large enough. In this case, additional elements will be required that will help narrow the opening a little.

Finishing a doorway (portal) in an apartment

If you don’t want to install an interior door, you can install a portal instead. Arches are outdated, and this solution increases the space in a small apartment, so this is a win-win option for visually combining adjacent rooms: hall and living room, corridor and dining room, living room and small kitchen. A doorway without a traditional door surprisingly transforms a room:

Preparing the flooring before installing doors

A common mistake made by repair teams when laying floor coverings is when the gap between the floor covering and the wall in the area of ​​the platbands exceeds the thickness of the platband. And you just need to remember to make it no more than 3 mm. in the area of ​​platbands.

A recess (groove) can be made in the wall near the floor to compensate for possible expansion of the floor covering.

Storing doors after purchase

To avoid deformation under the influence of gravity, the canvas, box beams and platbands must be stored on a flat surface before installation. Doors can be placed on their side against the wall.

After a cold spell, doors, trims and frames increase in size due to increased humidity, so doors and moldings must first be stored indoors for several days. Do not remove the packaging from the doors in advance until the temperatures have completely equalized.

Failure to comply with these rules may cause cracks at the joints of platbands and boxes a few days after installation!

Door selection

The first thing you should pay attention to when choosing canvas and boxes is the material they are made of.

Fiberboard is used to produce budget doors and frames. The material does not protect the room from extraneous sounds, absorbs moisture, and filling will lead to damage during the first off-season.

It is strictly not recommended to choose a frame made of fiberboard; it quickly deforms even under the weight of the door.

MDF is a more reliable material with increased density, average in price-quality ratio.

It is strong enough to withstand mechanical loads, does not absorb moisture, muffles sounds and lasts a long time.

Solid wood is ideal for making and installing a box. It will not be affected by humidity, it will withstand the weight of any door. Laminated wood is additionally lined; untreated timber is not inferior to laminated timber in performance, but it will have to be painted or decorated.

The ideal option is to purchase a box and canvas made of the same material. You should not give preference to wood fiber board; doors made from it are short-lived; they are installed on construction sites so that new owners can replace them with permanent ones made of more durable materials.

Ideally, it is worth acquiring a solid solid material as a door filling; to reduce the cost, the canvas can be replaced with MDF, which is also a durable raw material for the manufacture of cheaper door frames.

Additional strips and trims can be made of fiberboard, wood or MDF. They do not carry a load, they only decorate the gaps and disguise the connections.

Double doors are often chosen for large rooms and halls; single-leaf blocks are installed in bedrooms and kitchens. In any case, the size of the box and the number of panels are determined by the size of the opening.

Which loops to choose?

  • If the canvas weighs up to 20 kg, then it is optimal to buy 2 loops 10 cm high
  • If the canvas weighs from 20 to 30 kg, then you need to buy 2 loops of 12-12.5 cm. height
  • If the canvas weighs more than 30 kg, then you need to buy 3 loops of 10 cm each. height

The hinges are hung at a distance of 20 cm from the top and bottom of the door leaf. The thickness of the metal and the absence of play are very important. If the metal thickness of the hinge is 3 mm, then these are good hinges; a thickness of 2-2.5 mm is much more common. It is very good if the hinges are made of brass or steel. The most common door hinges come in several types:

  • universal hinges are traditional mortise hinges that are familiar to all of us. If the choice of hinges is not a fundamental issue, buy universal hinges. They can open both to the right and to the left. In addition, universal hinges have a longer service life.

  • Butterfly hinges are not mortise, overhead hinges. Easy and simple to install. They got their name for their special unusual design - both of its elements, when open, resemble butterfly wings. During the process of closing the door leaf, one part of the hinge easily fits into the other, forming a single whole. Typically, such hinges are installed on lightweight doors.

  • removable hinges - time-tested mortise hinges; a door with such hinges is simply removed if it opens 180 degrees. There are right and left depending on the door opening

Installing door hardware

A familiar type of door canopies for many is a flag-shaped design followed by a neat inset. There are loops that do not require such jewelry work. Many are the old-fashioned way, they just get cut in!

The canopies are located with standard spacing of 200 mm (the reference point is the edge of the canvas, below). When using the third loop, it is attached half a meter from the top edge.


In the middle.

The canopies are attached to the assembled box taking into account the gaps, with an indentation of 230 mm (the reference point is the upper hinge beam).

We make the cut with a chisel or use a milling cutter. It is important that the hinge flag is flush with both the box and the canvas.

We place the handle at a distance of about a meter from the floor (+200 mm if necessary).

Fitting in fittings

When the box is assembled, it needs to be laid on a flat floor with the flap facing up and the canvas placed inside. Having set the upper gap, you should place a folded hinge between the door and the frame and mark its position with a pencil. The hinges are installed 220–250 mm from the top and bottom of the canvas.

After this, the door is taken back out and the hinge plates are screwed onto a couple of screws using the marks made. This is done in order to carefully trace them along the contour with a sharp sectional blade, cutting off the lamination. After this, the loops are twisted, and a sample is made along the contour lines slightly less than the thickness of the metal plate. Professional installers use a hand router with a jig for this, while a home craftsman has to work with a chisel and hammer.

First you need to beat off the contour with a chisel, installing the tool with the cut of the blade inward so as not to flare the edges. When beating, the chisel should be buried slightly deeper than the thickness of the hinge plate. It is also recommended to make several notches, dividing the cut area into 6–8 fragments. To carefully remove the material, the chisel must be held at an angle where the blade is sharpened, cutting off thin shavings. There is no need to ideally clean the sample; you just need to try on the plate often enough to ensure its uniform depth. When the selections are made, the hinges are screwed with the screws from the kit along the pre-drilled holes.

Locks are cut in at such a height that their handles are flush with the switches. First, the lock body is placed on both sides of the door and holes for the handle drive and keyhole are marked. Their centers must be marked taking into account that the lock will move inside the door by the thickness of the end plate.

Next, the lock is attached to the end of the door with the body facing outward, a knife is drawn around the end plate and sampling is performed according to the same principle as when inserting hinges. Having measured the gaps between the edges of the end plate and the body, you need to mark the mortise pocket on the sample. The bulk of the material is removed with a feather drill. The pen must be centered so that the holes overlap each other by a third of the diameter; the drill must be held strictly perpendicular to the end. After this, you need to trim the remaining partitions with a wide chisel.

The cut-in pocket can be slightly larger, it is only important to leave enough body for attaching decorative handle trims. Having drilled holes for the lock rod and cylinder, insert the lock body into the pocket, secure the end plate and install handles with decorative overlays. To complete the installation, the strike plate is screwed under the latch; it must be placed in such a position that the closed door has no play.

How to choose the right specialist to install an interior door and check the quality of his work?


How to make the right choice so as not to be left with hopelessly damaged doors? Will the work be done efficiently if the door installer has doubts? Let's first find out how best to check the work of the wizard and analyze everything point by point.

How to check the work of a door installation technician?

  1. Look at the quality of the insertion of locks, the joints of the frame and platbands, and the insertion of hinges. There should be no gaps.
  2. The lock tongue should fit into the strike plate with almost no play.
  3. The canvas should evenly fit along its entire length to the rebate or rubber seal. When closing the door, the elastic should not be jammed by the canvas.
  4. The gaps between the door and the frame must be even along the entire length.
  5. The box is secured in the opening not only with construction foam, but also with fasteners
  6. The canvas should not close or open on its own. An exception can be made for doors installed flush with an inclined wall upon agreement with the customer.
  7. The fittings must rotate freely
  8. The price may rise only due to the increased volume of work that could not be foreseen in advance.

How to choose the right door installation specialist? Basic methods and pros and cons

It is necessary to look at real photographs of the work or see the work live (for example, in a friend’s apartment). The master or team must have at least 1 year of experience and provide a guarantee.

The master must highly specialize in installing doors! Professional tools must be available: a miter saw, a cutting table or a hand-held circular saw, milling cutters, a screwdriver, a drill, a hammer drill, a pin gun with a compressor, templates for fittings, etc.

Read reviews.

This is the best way to search
, so without a doubt, your doors will be installed with high quality very soon!
You can get the phone number of a private master from friends, relatives or acquaintances. With a recommendation you can find a good specialist. But you just need to look at the photographs yourself or live in the apartment, because often acquaintances, out of ignorance, praise masters whose quality is very seriously poor.

You can call a team from the store where the doors were purchased. Stores or online stores usually take 20-50% of the price from installers and orders have to be fulfilled throughout Moscow and the Moscow region without reference to the region. Hence the colossal turnover, haste and low quality. And managers always assure that the best masters will come to you)). Installing interior doors with the help of a team from a store is a lottery.

You can install doors and install fittings yourself, although you have no experience. It is necessary to understand that such work has a huge number of nuances and any error in calculations or when carrying out work with tools often entails irreparable damage to the door leaf, frame, platbands or extensions. We periodically carry out reinstallation orders after unsuccessful attempts on our own.

You can choose a private craftsman or a team who charge inexpensively through advertisements on the Internet or in the newspaper. Often installation is inexpensive because the price of the work corresponds to the quality. Many beginners have very few tools in their arsenal and learn their skills at your door. Teams of visiting craftsmen from neighboring countries can install doors cheaply. The phone on the classifieds site may immediately stop answering calls if there is a problem.

On a large website with advertisements for masters, you can spend a very long time choosing a master based on reviews or photographs, and call each other. Good craftsmen are always on the job, order two weeks in advance, or work for themselves. As a result, they may tell you that your chosen master is busy and they will also send “excellent” masters. If the offer itself differs significantly in cost from similar ones, the price may unexpectedly increase for various reasons, or the price is announced without the cost of fasteners, foam, travel outside the Moscow Ring Road, and the like. And when the brigade arrives, the price can rise significantly.

You can negotiate with the team that is doing renovations in the apartment, which is highly not recommended! Your “own” door installer may actually be a novice or a tiler/putter, but no one will tell you that.

Due to the lack of constant experience, the construction team almost always violates the door installation technology:

  1. The main and favorite “trick” is that after installing the doors on the frames, the walls are leveled with wet plaster, after which moisture from the plaster penetrates into the frame through the mounting foam, swelling occurs and the gaps change.
  2. Maintenance crews typically purchase tools for general repairs. As a rule, they do not have milling cutters, miter saws, compressors, stud guns or templates for fittings.
  3. the boxes are installed on one foam without any fasteners in the walls, so after installation the doors sag after some time and begin to rub against the jamb
  4. interior doors are installed before the flooring due to haste or the floor is laid, but the thresholds are made incorrectly

Generalists who renovate turnkey apartments, in our opinion, install doors poorly, since they are too busy with plastering, tiles, screed, plumbing and similar activities. Therefore, the small skill acquired is quickly forgotten. And you need to keep a lot of information in your head! But such an installation can be cheaper due to the size of the total apartment renovation bill.

We periodically come to fix their “jambs”, and sometimes nothing can be fixed without completely reinstalling expensive doors.

The installation of interior doors must be done according to rules that you need to know in order to supervise your repair team. After all, they need to properly prepare doorways, correctly install thresholds and lay flooring, and so on. Now that you know how to properly install interior doors in an apartment, you can safely begin arranging your home!

Tools and materials

In addition to purchasing an interior door with frame and trim, you will need the following:

  • a hand saw with a miter box for cutting at a precise angle;
  • screwdriver or drill with attachments;
  • for concrete walls you need a hammer drill;
  • chisel;
  • construction level;
  • square, protractor, ruler;
  • fasteners: screws and dowels;
  • small nails;
  • hammer;
  • polyurethane foam;
  • door fittings (handles, latches, hinges).

Customer reviews in the category “installation of interior doors”

Average rating: 5.0 stars (based on 42 ratings)

I ordered the installation of two interior doors.

I ordered the installation of two interior doors.
a young guy Andrey arrived with a full (!!!) set of tools, did everything magically, suggested how to mount it more conveniently for me, I was more than satisfied with the work. 2020-Feb-Fri 08:02

Sergey

Moscow Golyanovo

I express my gratitude to the company

I express my gratitude to the company and, in particular, to the installer Oleg Sergeevich, for a job well done.
Helped us out in a difficult moment. Thank you for the very high-quality installation of interior doors! 2018-Sep-Fri 09:09

Alexei

Moscow

I was satisfied

Konstantin thank you for your patience!!!
You are well done!!! I will definitely recommend you to my friends. The quality of work is excellent. 2018-Aug-Sun 08:08

Alexei

Moscow

We will order more

Thank you very much for the professional installation and efficiency!
2018-May-Tue 08:05

Vladislav

Moscow, Maryino

Great!

I would like to leave my review about the work of master Vitaly.
I believe that this master is worthy of the highest praise. He installed 6 doors for me together with an assistant in 1 day! I decided to check everything myself, looked at the work thoroughly and could not find fault with anything. I wish Vitaly good luck in his business! 2018-May-Sun 09:05

Ivan Vladimirovich

Moscow, Tsaritsyno

Super

Everything went well.
Master Vitaly did an excellent job! Installed 5 doors very quickly and very efficiently. I recommend! 2018-Feb-Sun 08:02

Evgeniya

Elektrostal

Thank you

Thank you for the excellent job installing the doors!
Clearly, promptly, with high quality! 2017-Nov-Sat 12:11

Nikita

Moscow — Biryulyovo

The doors are installed perfectly

Thanks for the work done.
The fittings fit perfectly. The doors are installed perfectly. My husband and I are very pleased. We will contact you again if necessary. 2017-Mar-Sat 02:03

Natalya Iosifovna

Reutov

GOOD DOOR INSTALLATION

I AM VERY SATISFIED THAT I CAME HERE. MASTER VITALIY INSTALLED THE DOORS CAREFULLY.
A VERY POLITE YOUNG MAN, I WILL INVITE HIM AGAIN IF NEEDED. 2016-May-Wed 02:05

MILA

RAILWAY

keep it up

Thank you very much for the quality installation.
Andrey is a true master of his craft. Very cool artist, he did everything carefully! I will recommend it! 2015-Sep-Fri 07:09

Inna

Korolev

all OK

Master Ilya installed the doors for me.
I installed the doors very carefully and made a portal for the front door. An excellent master and a good person. 2014-Apr-Thu 09:04

Paul

Moscow Golyanovo

We will contact you again

I also want to leave a review about the work of master Ilya.
He supplied us with 7 doors, very diligently and professionally. I would also like to note his individual approach to each client. This is one of the few specialists in his field who can be recommended to everyone with a clear conscience. 2013-Dec-Tue 03:12

Valentina

Lyubertsy

Great

I would like to express my gratitude to the master for an excellent job installing the doors.
He arrived on time, with a full set of tools, did everything quickly and very efficiently. Everyone would do their job like this! 2013-Sep-Tue 10:09

Anna

Moscow Bulatnikovo

Rating
( 2 ratings, average 4.5 out of 5 )
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