Holtsky's blog article How to Paint MDF - Complete Control

Painting MDF is an ideal option to update furniture or interior if it is not possible to purchase new furniture or make repairs. Painting MDF is a rather complex process that requires some effort. In addition, you need to purchase high-quality paint and prepare materials in order to get the highest quality result:

• sandpaper with different abrasiveness;
• masking tape;
• spray gun;
• compositions necessary for degreasing and painting.

MDF cannot be painted without a priming process; this work can guarantee reliable adhesion of the paint and varnish composition to the facades. To do this, you can use different types of primers - for plastic, vapor-filling, epoxy.

If it is necessary to paint a natural wood surface, it is not recommended to use an epoxy solution. For MDF, you will need to use all types in turn - plastic, epoxy, vapor-filling.

What is MDF used for?

Before you learn about the process of painting MDF, you need to find out about its qualities and where this material can be used. So what is MDF used for? MDF stands for finely dispersed fraction. This is an engineered wood that is made from a mixture of wood fibers and glue using the hot pressing method.

For some types of furniture, MDF is better suited than for others. The main disadvantage of MDF is that the material does not react well to contact with moisture or liquids. If it gets wet, it swells right there. This is why they try to avoid using MDF in the kitchen and bathroom.

Pore ​​fillers

Porosity filler helps ensure the tightness of the equipment, as well as improve the quality of the surface of the product by filling micropores in the material of the equipment.

Before starting assembly or sending parts for sale, it is always important to carry out a high-quality finishing, which includes painting.

To ensure that the coloring composition adheres reliably to the surface, protecting it from the effects of adverse environmental factors, a foam filler . It closes the pores of the material, better revealing its structure and protecting it from the penetration of microflora (especially important in the case of wood), water, and other aggressive environmental factors. Common pore fillers include many types of putties and even adhesives.

General characteristics of materials

These materials consist of a liquid part (usually a polymer base) and a filler.
The liquid part of the composition gives the material the proper degree of elasticity and binds the filler, which does the main job of closing the pores (and also, if necessary, serves as a dye). As a rule, the fillers are as finely dispersed powdered compositions as possible. They bind perfectly to the polymer part of the filler. In addition, their specific type is selected based on the characteristics of the surface being treated (i.e., so that they match its texture). Very often the filler is tripoli dust, kaolin, and in some cases finely ground glass dust. If necessary, additional pigments of mineral or organic origin are added to the composition.

Surfaces to be treated with foam fillers

The main types of pore fillers are combined with the following types of surfaces:

• Various types of wood.
• Processing of small areas of metal is allowed. Preferably, cast iron or high-carbon types of steel, but the material must be thoroughly sanded and degreased before processing.
• Many types of plastics, including fiberglass reinforced ones.
• It is also possible to apply fillers to old paints and varnishes in order to restore their original pattern and texture, but before this they must be polished, cleaned and degreased.

The filler is always applied to the entire surface of the part!

What disadvantages does this material have?

If you are planning to paint MDF furniture, there are a few rules to keep in mind. The most important thing is that if you work with MDF incorrectly or cut it, you can get hurt. Therefore, always wear protection when working with this material, especially if you are sawing it. Therefore, for this type of work you simply need a protective mask that will fit tightly on you.

MDF reacts poorly to water. Therefore, it is not allowed to use paints and varnishes on an aqua base. If a huge amount of water gets on MDF, then most quickly the material will change its shape irrevocably. You can reduce the risk of such damage by properly preparing the surface with primer and appropriate paint.

Types of priming compositions

The primer mixture consists of polyurethane and various solvents, but depending on the material of the base being primed and its location, primers may differ in composition due to special additives that give them additional properties. According to the degree of curing there are:

1. Single-component, consisting of a solvent and a base substance. A one-component polyurethane primer is often used for interior work on MDF or wood; it is well suited for concrete walls. Its fluid structure penetrates deeply into an MDF board or concrete wall, strengthening and leveling the substrate, increasing adhesion for applying the finishing coating.
2. Two-component, produced in the form of two bottles (polyurethane mixture and hardener), which are mixed before use. Two-component polyurethane primer is stronger, but less fluid due to the presence of a hardener, well suited for outdoor use or for high-traffic concrete floors. If the solution contains a zinc-filled component, this will provide anti-corrosion protection to the metal. Rarely used for wood or MDF. Often, when priming is the only method of painting, for example, when protecting the floor in a workshop or garage, it is worth using an enamel primer, which will strengthen the concrete structure and protect it from destruction.

MDF surface preparation and sanding.

MDF does not require harsh preparation before painting. But, if you want to make beautiful, long-lasting furniture from MDF, there are a couple of steps you can take ahead of time. Before applying the primer, you can lightly sand the surface using medium-grit abrasives (120P should be fine). Make sure you take extra care to sand the edges; if they are not smooth enough they will not absorb the paint well.

Sanding the MDF surface allows the primer and paint to adhere perfectly to it. For work, use soft sandpaper, which will help polish the material. When you sand MDF, it is imperative to ventilate the room. Also, do not forget to wear a protective mask and goggles.

After you finish the sanding process, you must remove all dust from the surface of the material. If even a few dust particles remain, this greatly affects the adhesion of the paintwork. Keep the area where you work clean.

High quality 3D molding for furniture fronts

3D thermal lamination or molding is a process in which a thermoplastic film (in most cases PVC) is applied to an MDF panel by vacuum pressing. In this case, two types of pressing systems are used - membrane and non-membrane. 3D furniture fronts are important components of exclusive furniture in bathrooms and kitchens, as well as in bedrooms and living spaces.

The gluing process using PU dispersion adhesive takes place in two stages to ensure the durability of the adhesive joint: preheating and three-dimensional molding. The necessary deformation of the film is achieved by applying vacuum from below and press pressure from above. Setting processing parameters depends on the type of film used and the geometry of the workpieces.

Our impact-resistant films for 3D thermal lamination are made on the basis of rigid PVC without harmful solvents with one-sided application of a primer or adhesive sublayer for optimal adhesion.

3D thermal lamination requires careful preparation and final finishing of the surface being processed, as well as a highly professional approach. We will provide support in choosing the optimal 3D film and adhesive, taking into account your individual wishes.

What primer should be used when working with MDF?

MDF is a very porous material that absorbs water and paint very quickly. Therefore, it is necessary to carefully prepare the material before painting. If you apply the wrong primer, the paint will not adhere to the material properly. This can lead to the paintwork forming a film that simply peels off and looks scary.

The introduction of the right type of soil is necessary if you want to achieve a good result. We recommend using an insulator for MDF as the 1st layer.

As a subsequent layer, you can use any PU or acrylic primer from our range.

Polyurethane materials Sayerlack for interior work

Polyurethane paints and varnishes are by far the most popular for finishing wooden products indoors. This is due to the special properties of polyurethanes, as well as their affordable price. Coatings of this group are characterized by high solids, excellent physical and chemical resistance and high elasticity. They are well suited for use in rooms with high humidity and temperature changes.

TU 100

Technical information TU 100

Transparent polyurethane two-component insulating primer for MDF. Prevents pile lifting, absorption and sagging of the paint layer on loose surfaces, reducing the overall consumption of paints and varnishes. Has a particularly short drying period (15 minutes). Minimum consumption 50-100 g/sq.m. Subsequent layers are polyurethane or polyester pigment primers. Also suitable for use in transparent finishing systems. Application with paint guns and coating equipment.

TU 161

Technical information TU 161

Polyurethane two-component primer with high hiding power. The material is thixotropic, i.e. adheres well to vertical surfaces without smudges. A special feature of the soil is its excellent transparency, as a result of which the grindability of the soil can be somewhat difficult. Application with spray guns, except electrostatic ones.

TU 18

Technical information TU 18

Polyurethane two-component general purpose primer. It resists peeling well, so it is recommended for application to surfaces subject to impact (countertops). The soil is opaque and sands well. Application with air, airmix and airless guns or coating equipment.

TU 2

Technical information TU 2

Economy class polyurethane two-component primer. It resists peeling well, is opaque and easy to sand. Application: paint guns and coating equipment.

TU 20

Technical information TU 20

Polyurethane two-component quick-drying primer. Thanks to the high dry residue (53%) it allows you to obtain a high thickness of the dry paint film. Well suited to closed cell finishing systems. Application with various types of spray guns, incl. electrostatic.

TU 213/XX

Technical information TU 213/XX

TU 229/13

Technical information TU 229/13

Pigmented polyurethane two-component primer. White color. It has high viscosity and excellent adhesion to vertical surfaces. Dries quickly (1 hour before sanding), has high hiding power, even on sharp edges. Application with conventional and electrostatic guns.

TU 3

Technical information TU3

Polyurethane two-component primer with a very broad spectrum of action and excellent characteristics. Demonstrates good dry film thickness, drying, and sandability. Application: paint guns and coating equipment.

TU 325

Technical information TU 325

Two-component polyurethane barrier primer. It has exceptional transparency and excellent elasticity. Due to its physico-chemical properties and excellent adhesive ability, the primer is suitable for difficult operating conditions, such as parquet and floors in general, as well as steps. The material fits well on any type of wood and withstands impacts without the formation of white rings. Easy to apply with brush and roller.

TU 629

Technical information TU 629

The material is an analogue of TU 20. Application with spray guns, incl. electrostatic and stationary, small-sized paint filling equipment.

TU 94

Technical information TU 94

Polyurethane two-component primer. It holds well on vertical surfaces, has a high dry film thickness, and is easy to sand. Recommended for application to vertical surfaces and turned parts. Application with conventional and electrostatic guns, incl. on automatic lines.

TR 5008

Technical information TR 5008

TU 565

Technical information TU 565

TL 345

High gloss polyurethane two-component varnish. Gloss level over 95%. Compared to other glossy varnishes, it has the highest drying speed. Well suited for applications that require scratch resistance (e.g. countertops) or fast drying (baguettes, frames, baseboards, etc.). Polishing possible.

TU 11** (Parquet, self-priming)

One-component polyurethane self-priming varnish for parquet floors. Ready to use. It is extremely elastic and at the same time hard and scratch-resistant. Easy to apply by brush or roller with no problems with bubbles or brush marks. It has a uniform matte finish and excellent abrasion resistance. To ensure better preservation of the varnish in the container, it is not recommended to keep the container open, except for the time immediately necessary for application. Gloss levels: 40, 70, 90%.

TU 34** (Self-priming)

Self-priming polyurethane two-component varnish with a high solids. Compared to TU 61**, drying time is slightly longer, but the resulting coating has a greater dry film thickness. Gloss levels: 10, 25, 40, 50%.

TU 61** (Self-priming)

Self-priming polyurethane two-component varnish, i.e. one product acts as both a primer and a varnish. Short drying time (2 hours). Ideal for large porous woods due to its excellent wettability. Allows you to obtain coatings with evenly open pores. Has excellent resistance to household detergents. Application with spray guns, suitable for automatic lines. Gloss levels: 10, 25, 35, 65%.

How to apply primer?

The edges of MDF are quite porous, so you need to seal these areas especially well. You need to cover the MDF with 2 or even 3 layers of primer before testing the material (insulating primer + main primer). For the best result, between applying layers of soil, you can sand the surface a little. Wait about an hour before applying paint, otherwise the primer simply will not have time to dry.

For thin sheets, it is good to prime both sides of the MDF. After all, this is such a porous material that paint can penetrate from the back side. You can prevent this by coating the back of the MDF with several coats of primer, even if you don't plan to paint it.

Between applying layers of soil, you can sand the surface a little.

The process of strengthening a concrete base

The first method of treating the screed so that it does not accumulate dust and becomes stronger involves using a topping for the top layer.
The dry mixture contains cement, to which corundum or quartz, various plasticizers, and sometimes metal particles are added. Impurities add to a concrete floor:

• increased resistance to mechanical loads;
• additional wear resistance;
• hygiene;
• insulation characteristics;
• lack of reaction to chemicals.

Using special distribution devices, a certain amount of the mixture is evenly scattered over the concrete surface. The topping is sprayed with water to wet it a little, and then smoothed with a paddle machine. After this, the pores of the concrete are closed, and the floor covering, in addition to strength, also acquires an attractive appearance. Thanks to this technology, the problem of how to treat a concrete floor is solved.

To give the surface decorative qualities, you can add dyes of various shades to the topping. The amount of mixture used depends on the loads that are planned to be placed on the floor. By the way, the topping is intended for processing the new concrete surface so that they become one.

The second option is used when it is necessary to solve the question: how to impregnate a concrete floor from dust if it has already been subjected to operation.

In this case, liquid compositions are used for processing, which can be manufactured:

• Organic based
  . Molecules of polyurethane, acrylic or epoxy compounds are able to penetrate into concrete, due to its porous structure, after which the floor becomes waterproof and immune to chemicals;
• Inorganic based
  . Fluates penetrate into the very thickness of the base, where they interact with the soluble components of the concrete mixture and thereby strengthen it. These compounds can strengthen the floor so much that they are used to create a runway.

Primer coating and sheet edge treatment

Learning how to paint MDF is quite simple. But, before you start painting, you need to remember to create something very important. As mentioned earlier, MDF edges in particular are excellent at absorbing water. Despite the fact that MDF primer works exceptionally well on the front side of the material, special attention must be paid to the edges.

There are several materials you can use on the edges before painting. Whatever filler you choose, the technique will be similar - apply the product, sand it, add another layer.

Polyurethane primer: pros, cons and existing varieties

Polyurethane-based primer is considered one of the best among similar compositions

Don't know which primer is best to use during home renovations? My experience allows me to say that a polyurethane primer can be an excellent choice. A detailed analysis of its positive and negative sides will help me prove this.

What paint is best suited for MDF?

There are several methods to paint MDF, and there are many paint options you can purchase. Introducing the right type of paint makes a big difference in the end result. So what paint is best for MDF?

As you already realized, MDF and water are not compatible. On a theoretical level, if your MDF sheet has been perfectly coated with primer, water-based paint should not damage the material. But, the introduction of such paint carries certain dangers. Water causes the wood fibers in the material to swell, and this simply cannot be corrected. Sometimes this can be sanded down, but most often it is irreparable damage.

Conventional emulsions will most quickly give an uneven result, and the paint can peel off very quickly. Instead, you should choose paints based on PUR or acrylic, the result will be even better.

The last thing you need to consider is what type of matte varnish will suit your paint. . For different projects, you can choose a matte paint, a paint with a glossy sheen, or something that will help achieve an intermediate result.

24-95080-9734-2-350, Matera Steel, PVC film for MDF facades

Impeccable optical characteristics of films - PVC films are produced according to modern recipes.

Exceptional wear resistance, operational and technological properties.

Strict European quality standards - all films do not contain plasticizers, heavy metals, or other impurities hazardous to health.

Versatile possibilities for high-quality finishing of furniture facades, furniture parts and interior doors.

The range of products we offer is widely represented by a variety of designs, degree of gloss and relief embossing, allows you to satisfy individual preferences and captivates with the first-class quality of the material.

A high-quality finishing recipe – 3D thermoformable films are excellent for processing workpieces even with very small radii.

The quality of 3D thermoformed furniture films based on rigid PVC is ideal for membrane pressing. Due to their excellent elasticity and hiding power, 3D rigid PVC films are increasingly used to refine the surfaces of doors and cabinets, tables, work surfaces, as well as furniture elements and panels.

Variety of designs and materials

8th Degree is a wide selection of decorative cladding materials for the production of furniture, doors, wall panels and interior parts. Together with our customers and partners, we are constantly expanding our existing range of films and also developing individual solutions for completely harmonious designs - from kitchen surfaces to wall coverings.

How to paint MDF

Once you have prepared and primed the MDF sheets, it's time to start painting. It's best to start with a thin layer of paint. This will allow you to realize how absorbent your MDF sheet is.

If you have prepared the material properly, you will notice that the paint does not dry immediately. If you see that the paint is drying very quickly, finish painting and sand the surface again. This will save you a lot of time.

Usually two or three coats of paint are required for an MDF sheet that has been properly coated with primer. Do not forget that between applying layers of paint the surface must be sanded. Start with a coarse-grained skin and gradually change to the softest one.

24-95080-9734-2-350, Matera Steel, PVC film for MDF facades

Impeccable optical characteristics of films - PVC films are produced according to modern recipes.

Exceptional wear resistance, operational and technological properties.

Strict European quality standards - all films do not contain plasticizers, heavy metals, or other impurities hazardous to health.

Versatile possibilities for high-quality finishing of furniture facades, furniture parts and interior doors.

The range of products we offer is widely represented by a variety of designs, degree of gloss and relief embossing, allows you to satisfy individual preferences and captivates with the first-class quality of the material.

A high-quality finishing recipe – 3D thermoformable films are excellent for processing workpieces even with very small radii.

The quality of 3D thermoformed furniture films based on rigid PVC is ideal for membrane pressing. Due to their excellent elasticity and hiding power, 3D rigid PVC films are increasingly used to refine the surfaces of doors and cabinets, tables, work surfaces, as well as furniture elements and panels.

Variety of designs and materials

8th Degree is a wide selection of decorative cladding materials for the production of furniture, doors, wall panels and interior parts. Together with our customers and partners, we are constantly expanding our existing range of films and also developing individual solutions for completely harmonious designs - from kitchen surfaces to wall coverings.

Why do you need a soil insulator?

If you do not use insulating soil, but use ordinary soil, then it will “sink” into the MDF, especially at the ends and milling areas, this is due to the porous structure. Typically, polyurethane primers are used as insulator primers; in the Renner line these are FI M199, FI R800, but there is also an aqua-based insulator for environmentally friendly finishes YL M641. The insulating primer is applied in a small layer, sufficient to fill the pores and thereby compact the top layer of MDF.

If you don’t use an insulator when finishing MDF, you will have to apply more layers of regular primer and wait until it fills the pores - this is more expensive and takes longer.

Grinding

When applied to the surface of MDF, the primer insulator raises the pile, because of this no serious sanding is required; it is removed quite simply, with an ordinary sanding sponge with P180 grain.

Glossy finish

If you want to get a glossy finish, then the next layer should be completely even. For better gloss properties, it is recommended to use polyester primers in the next layer, such as PL R310 or PL R013. If you use primers of other chemical groups, you can also get gloss, but better properties can only be achieved with polyester.

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0 Explanations 0

No matter how rich the specialist’s experience is, and no matter how confident he is within himself, from time to time he needs to consult with someone. Communication on the Internet has long become commonplace for us. Various network users - whether a specialist or a knowledgeable amateur - can post life hacks (ordinary useful tips on various topics) on the network that can be usefully used for your home.

What are the advantages of using forum resources?

• A constant stream of fascinating information about the latest building ideas.
• Common and useful tips for construction.
• The opportunity to communicate with fascinating people, experienced masters of their own craft.
• Tips on choosing tools or materials.
• Also a pleasant plus is the lack of advertising, because users are users just like you.

VD-AK-0146 Primer - transparent acrylic filler for processing MDF (antiseptic).

INTENDED: For filling pores and defects in MDF before applying varnish.

SPECIAL PROPERTIES: • Non-toxic • Odorless • Fire and explosion-proof • Effectively fills the pores of a wooden surface • Improves adhesion and increases the durability of the subsequent coating • Reduces paint consumption of the subsequent coating. • Protects wood from moisture, rot, mold and blue stains. INSTRUCTIONS FOR USE: Mix thoroughly before use. Dry the surfaces until there is no moisture. Apply by spraying to dry, clean, pre-primed surfaces. Use primer-glaze VD-AK-0140, following the instructions for use. After each layer has dried, sand the surface. Remove any accumulated dust. Drying is carried out under natural conditions for 1 hour at a temperature of at least +20oC and a relative humidity of 65%. For other environmental parameters, drying time is determined experimentally. To speed up drying, use a heat chamber, t no more than 60oC. Primer consumption is determined by practical measurements. Approximate consumption per layer is 80 - 100 g/m2. APPLICATION: produced by pneumatic, hydraulic or combined spraying; — nozzle d — 1.5 mm; — air pressure — 0.25-0.3 MP; - wet film thickness 70 - 100 microns;

Articles on this topic:

Wooden structural elements are used in the construction of almost every house. One of the most effective ways to protect them is impregnation, i.e. impregnation with compounds that protect against various harmful factors.

Any wood product, be it furniture, doors, window frames or anything else, needs finishing. And the point here is not only in appearance, but also in protecting organic material from external factors.

When the time for renovation approaches, the problem of choosing a finish for the walls arises. And initially this choice is made not from colors and textures, but between two main types of finishing - wallpaper and painting. To make the right decision, you need to take into account many factors and weigh the pros and cons of each of these finishes.

Nothing lasts forever, not even metal. Possessing unsurpassed strength characteristics, without proper protection, parts of metal building structures gradually become unusable. It is always necessary to remember about protecting metals from corrosion, and especially where the metal has a load-bearing function.

Why are wood impregnations needed?

Treating wood structures with special compounds prevents them from smoldering, swelling and destruction by pests. More useful and easy-to-use wood impregnations for:

• aqua base. Used for indoor and outdoor work. They do not have a sharp specific aroma. It is better to apply such protective compounds on a wet base - dry material can swell and crack. The product quickly absorbs into the pores of wood and dries in an average of 4 hours;
• acrylic base. These solutions are used to treat wood surfaces indoors and outdoors. These compounds do not have a nasty odor and are completely harmless to humans. Acrylic wood impregnations have a disinfecting effect - they prevent the formation of mold, rot, and repel insects. They form a narrow film on the substrates, thereby providing a water-repellent effect. The product can be applied with a brush or spray gun;
• alkyd base. The products in this series include alkyd resins, wax, oil and disinfectant additives. Such impregnations highlight the beauty of wood, reliably protect boards from fungus, atmospheric and mechanical action, and also increase their fire resistance.

What wood impregnations can be purchased at Leroy Merlin

Our website presents products from various brands:

• Axton
• Belinka
• Dufa
• Jobi
• Kolerpark
• Neomid
• Polynor
• Profilux
• Soppka
• Aquatex

We offer at affordable prices disinfectant impregnations for wood based on water, acrylic and alkyd resins, which:

• reduce the ability of wood to absorb water;
• form a vapor-permeable protective layer;
• extend the service life of products made from timber, boards, logs, etc.

You can purchase compounds for wood, plywood and chipboard structures from us. The company’s online catalog presents both dull impregnations and products with various colors, for example, rosewood, pine, walnut or teak. The product can be ordered in small and large size containers.

We deliver orders throughout Moscow, the Capital Region and almost all other towns of the Russian Federation. Pickup is possible from any supermarket in our distribution network.

How to coat fiberboards

A special varnish is used to treat surfaces. It helps create a smooth coating that is resistant to mechanical and chemical influences. The treated surface can be glossy or matte. Gloss is the result of using varnish based on synthetic resins. A water-based acrylic coating gives a matte effect.

MDF coating varnish is a two-component substance. Before starting work, you need to add a hardener to the base. Typically this varnish is odorless.

The prepared working mixture should be used within two to three hours. The coating can be applied using a spray or a regular brush.

Like all finishing materials, varnish for MDF panels has its advantages and disadvantages. In addition to the fact that it has good moisture and heat resistance, it protects the material from the appearance of fungus and harmful microorganisms, creating a dense film on the surface of the slab. The varnished surface is easy to clean, does not wear out, and retains its good appearance for a long time. By covering a product, for example a door, with a varnish composition, you can emphasize the texture of the base and give it a certain shade.

If the texture of a wooden product needs to be hidden or given a different color, MDF is often painted.

The disadvantages of varnish coating include its fire hazard, drying time, fairly high price and increased consumption.

When choosing a varnish to coat MDF panels, you need to pay attention to some parameters:

• drying time should not exceed 72 hours;
• dust drying time – no more than 15 minutes;
• operating temperature – from +5 to +25 degrees;
• the composition of the varnish should contain no more than 20% of volatile substances
• consumption no more than 0.5 kg per square meter.

One-component mixtures

The primer contains polyurethane and various solvents. However, depending on the base material and its location (inside or outside), special components may be added to the mixture. Polyurethane primer can be one- or two-component.

The former consist of a base substance and a solvent. Suitable one-component polyurethane primer for MDF, concrete walls, wooden surfaces. They effectively strengthen the base, allow it to be leveled and increase adhesion to the finish coating.

Bitumen primer

A primer is a surface impregnation that strengthens the base, removes roughness, and increases adhesion. This is a deep-penetrating bitumen-based primer. It prepares the coating for subsequent waterproofing.

Main qualities:

• breathability;
• plastic;
• fast drying time;
• ease of application;
• softens at 80°C;
• temperature range of use – from -30°С to +85°С;
• flammability and volatility;
• it cannot be frozen.

The primer can be applied by brush, roller, spray gun, or pouring. The last method is the most expensive and can lead to overspending. It is used on horizontal surfaces. When working with primer, you must use a protective suit and mask.

This type of polyurethane primer is used in residential and industrial buildings. Its advantages:

• high degree of penetration into the base and its strengthening;
• hardens due to humidity;
• easy to use;
• safe after drying;
• contains organic solvents;
• creates a durable coating;
• Can be stored in a dry, warm room for quite a long time.

Polyurethane primers are an excellent way to strengthen the base and give it adhesive properties. Each type of surface has its own type of priming solution. Depending on the type of binder, polyurethane primers can be alkyd, acrylic and epoxy. They are easy to apply and durable to use.

In the next video, watch a review of the AveniR PRIMER polyurethane primer.

Flaws

Polyurethane primer has several disadvantages. First of all, the coating takes quite a long time to dry, about 3-5 hours. For most primers this period does not exceed 2 hours.

In addition, the cost of the polyurethane composition is quite high. However, experts assure that saving on primer is not advisable. The cheaper the composition, the sooner it will need updating.