How to make lining with your own hands using a hand router video

In the industrial production of lining, powerful woodworking machines are used to produce products of excellent quality, but not all users can afford it. Is it possible to make lining yourself and what is needed for this? We will talk about this in this article.

Do-it-yourself lining

Lining

What determines the quality of homemade lining

Working with lumber is much more difficult than working with metal. In nature, no two boards are completely identical, not to mention the different properties of soft and hard woods. Metal does not have knots, does not absorb moisture, does not have developmental defects, etc. And these indicators influence the processing technology. Industrial equipment makes it possible to greatly simplify the process due to the large mass of machines, precision adjustments, stable mechanical feed and strong pressing.

At home, all cutting parameters must be observed independently and quickly changed depending on the characteristics of the board and the capabilities of the machine. What should you keep in mind?

Pay attention to the location of the grain; never process lumber against the grain. Monitor the condition of the bearings. The slightest beating will certainly affect the roughness of the surfaces. As soon as it is discovered that the machine shaft is a little wobbly, the bearing must be urgently changed or, if possible, adjusted. Tenths of a millimeter of vibration significantly degrade the final quality. The serviceability of cutting tools is one of the important components of surface cleanliness. Saws and cutters must be sharp. If you make cutters yourself, then use only durable grades of tool steel. The geometry of all cutters must be the same. Otherwise, some of them will not work, and this is a very undesirable phenomenon. Position the cutters accurately, do not rush. It is very difficult for an inexperienced master to set all the cutters at once, do not be discouraged. Lose more time, but achieve the desired result. The lost time will be more than repaid in the future.

The more cutters, the better. If the head allows you to install four, then do so, do not work with two. Four cutters slightly increase the installation time, but then the machine works longer – they become less dull.

Always use exactly the same wedges to secure the knives. Even small differences in mass cause head vibration. Vibration not only degrades the quality of processing, but also causes rapid wear of bearings and increases the risk of injury. Observe cutting conditions for lumber

This is a very important condition. Cutting modes include the number of shaft revolutions, the number of cutting planes, feed speed and sharpening angle

We can talk about this topic for a very long time; cutting modes have a huge number of options. Beginning craftsmen need to become at least a little familiar with the theory, and in the future everything depends on the ability to learn practically and the desire to work with woodworking machines. Before feeding the board to the machine, inspect it, select the optimal cutting direction, taking into account the characteristics of the surfaces, the presence and type of knots and other defects. Place the finished lining in even stacks, do not place it vertically, and do not scatter it throughout the workshop. Cleanliness and order are evidence of the professionalism of the master.

If you have little experience, then the input/output of the board may be defective due to a slight change in the direction of movement and non-parallelism with the ruler. Keep this in mind when determining the length of the lining, make a reserve in length.

If you follow the above recommendations, there is no need to use sandpaper for final adjustment of surfaces. Remember that only amateurs make lining in such a way that it then has to be sanded by hand for a long time and tediously.

General requirements

On what machines and no matter what complexity you try to make lining, you must comply with the following requirements.

1. Quality of lumber . Boards should only be edged, with the same thickness and width. Wide planes must be passed through a surface planer on at least one, and preferably on both, sides. For these purposes, it is better to have a double-sided surface planer at home, and if you don’t have one, then at least a basic jointer.

Jointer

Double-sided thicknesser

If there are no such machines, then you can work with a manual electric plane. This work is quite difficult and long, and the quality will always be much lower than when processing lumber on machines.

Practical advice! We strongly recommend that you do not plan boards with a hand-held electric planer. It is much more profitable to take the lumber to a friend who has a double-sided planer; in an hour or two of work you will pass 1-2 m3 of boards - this amount is enough to decorate a small country house. You will have to plan them manually for more than one day, and, as we have already mentioned, the quality will be poor. Such lining can only be used for finishing auxiliary premises.

1. Drying. You can only work with lumber that has no more than 24% relative humidity. If the indicators are higher, then dry the boards under a canopy or in a ventilated area. The larger the gap between the stacks, the faster the lumber will get rid of excess moisture. Fold them carefully, do not allow any distortions to appear, place the spacers correctly, and be sure to press the top tier with a weight.

   Drying the lining

   Read also:  Features of the interior of a burgundy kitchen (40 real photos)
2. Job. Absolutely follow safety regulations. Statistics show that woodworking machines are considered the most dangerous equipment. Moreover, the injuries are very severe and often cause disability. This does not mean that machines should be feared, but they should be treated with respect. As for the use of mittens, this issue must be approached wisely. Mittens protect your hands from splinters, that's true. But it is also true that when the mitten gets caught under the cutting element, the hand or arm is pulled in, and injuries are much more dangerous.

Machine for making lining

We will tell you what machines and equipment you need to make lining with your own hands as the article progresses. The fact is that there are a large number of technologies, taking into account existing machines, it is impossible to describe everything in one article. Let's start with making the simplest lining - such work is accessible to most inexperienced craftsmen.

Price for the model range of jointing machines

Jointer

Milling cutters for lining and their application

In my spare time I would always like to do something useful for myself, and some spend this time decorating their house or apartment, because creativity always brings joy. One of the options is to independently produce the facing material, for which you will need cutters for lining on a manual router.

Making wooden panels yourself to cover a room with them is very interesting and exciting.

Finger cutters for making lining with a manual router

Making lining by hand

Milling cutters for a manual router for the manufacture of lining and other products. Big set

Hand cutters for wood can be divided into bearing (or edge) and bearingless. The former are used for the manufacture of lining, and the latter are used for one-time processing of any part, but they require auxiliary equipment.

Groove fillet cutters

Cutters for making lining for a manual router can have a ratio of the diameter (D) to the radius (R) of the groove on the panel: 9.5-4.8 mm, 12.7-6.35 mm, 15.8-7.9 mm and 199.5 mm. The diameter of the shank will remain 8 mm. Such cutters can be used for lining, but they are inconvenient.

Universal cutters for making lining

Such a cutter for lining, as in the photo above, can be used both with a manual milling machine and with a milling machine, which is equipped with collets. The diameter of the cutters in this case is 50 mm and 35 mm - respectively, with a shank diameter of 8 mm.

Mounted cutters for the manufacture of lining

Such a cutter for making lining will allow you to make panels with any type of tongue and groove. The most important thing is to set up the machine correctly and select the cutter sizes in terms of depth and diameter.

Manufacturing of lining

Level one side of the board

To make lining with your own hands, you need to make smooth jointed blanks from unedged boards. First of all, make a cut along one side, and then decide on the width of the future panel.

Set the ruler to the desired width

To determine the width, pay attention to all the boards you have so that the panels are the same. Of course, there are no strict instructions with directions here, but the most optimal board size will be from 7 to 10 cm

Be very careful when jointing boards because most carpenter injuries occur during this process. Of course, they won’t cut off a hand or a finger here, but the wounds bleed a lot and take a long time to heal, although at the first moment you don’t even feel pain. To ensure that the thickness of all boards is the same, count the number of passes along the cutter - you, of course, will not achieve millimeter accuracy, but no one will notice the difference.

Advice. For processing, it is better to choose boards no more than 2 m long, since longer ones are difficult to hold and the dimensions are inaccurate. Also, shorter boards will be easier to process with a hand router.

The lining with grooves on both sides is connected by a thin strip

When cutting down a wane, sometimes quite a lot of wood remains and should not be thrown away. From this waste you can cut thin slats for connection, and make the lining with grooves on both sides.

Cutting a groove with a milling cutter

When the board is cut and jointed, all you have to do is make a tongue and groove, that is, tongue and groove it around the perimeter. Place the cutter on the machine and, by lowering or raising the table, adjust the depth of the groove. Move the ruler to the required distance and make sure that during processing the board is always pressed tightly against its edge.

Processing boards on a surface planer

And how to make lining with a manual router, because before that we paid attention to a machine, albeit portable, but still a machine. To do this, you will need a calibrated board, and this cannot be done manually - you just need to pass it through a thicknesser

Working with a hand router

The comb is made with an end mill, and its width is adjusted with washers, but it is very important that the thickness is at least 4 mm, because a thinner one will break off. But when making such shelves, it is advisable that they be captured by a clamper, and it will take no more than 6 mm. Then, using a panel cutter, remove the remainder at the top, but make sure that the straight section is at least 5 mm

Making the lining with a manual milling cutter, or rather, the other side, is done in the same way, only the chamfer is removed with a panel cutter of a smaller size.

Manual device from an angle grinder

If you have a grinder on your farm, then you won’t find a better device for a hand-held circular saw. Don't know how to make a saw at home from such a popular tool? Don’t despair, because its manufacture only involves providing a sliding stop and an axial handle to an existing unit. The sliding stop includes in its design two pieces of metal corner of a small cross-section, located on both sides of the saw blade. Using bolts and nuts, the corners are connected from the front and back sides with a transverse ligament, and the technological gap between the sidewalls of the thrust structure and the working element will be provided with washers.

It is necessary to put a metal band clamp on the grinder so that its screw tie is located at the bottom, and a strip of galvanized metal with a hole for a sliding stop, folded in half, is fixed to it. In principle, a special clamp with a stand can be made as a single unit, but in this case the thickness of the metal strip will ideally be at least one and a half millimeters. Next, you will have to make a couple of holes for bolts in the gearbox housing of the future circular saw, for which it is disassembled and the drilling points are determined. Through the holes made, an axial handle for a circular saw assembled from a grinder is attached, since the existing handle will not allow for high-quality cuts, even if the master has remarkable physical strength.

The axial handle, which will be equipped with a grinder grinder, is made of a metal rod or tube. The shape of the design can be a transverse bracket or a kind of horn. The ends of the metal part with which the handle is attached to the gearbox are equipped with holes for fasteners. There is one important point here: the ends cannot be riveted in order to prevent the handle from bending during operation of the circular saw assembled with your own hands. It is also necessary to make an adjusting rod from a piece of metal rod (4 - 6 mm), for which we bend one end into a loop, rivet it a little and form a hole for the front stop bolt. As usual, we adjust the uniformity of the gap with washers.

At the other end of the rod, a thread is cut, thanks to which it is connected to the handle. First, one nut is screwed onto the thread, and after assembling the structure, a second one is screwed. By tightening and lowering the nuts of this device for a homemade hand-held circular saw, the depth of cut is adjusted. This is how, at home, you can convert an angle grinder into a full-fledged disk tool designed for cutting various materials. By the way, by remaking a circular saw from a drill, you can achieve a similar result.

Tools for stone work

Tools for hand milling, intended for working on stone, are distinguished by the variety of their design. The choice depends not only on what kind of stone needs to be processed, but also on the nature of the upcoming technological operation. Thus, depending on the design, there are radius, profile and overrunning cutters for working on stone, as well as for performing inlay work.

Depending on the material used to make the cutting part, cutters for stone work can be:

• equipped with carbide plates that are soldered onto the cutting part;
• with carbide elements fixed on the cutting part mechanically;
• with diamond coating.

The most effective for stone processing are cutters made using diamond chips. They can be produced by sintering such crumbs or by galvanizing them onto the working surface. More wear-resistant are tools obtained by sintering, the working part of which consists of several layers of diamond chips. The wear resistance of such cutters is explained by the fact that when grinding off the top layer of their working part, the next layer is exposed, the diamond grains of which have not yet been worn out.

What is needed for cladding and how much it can cost

If you decide to use lining as a facing material, it is worth assessing your future costs.
The cost, depending on the material, its quality and the type of panels, varies greatly (from 180 to 1300 rubles per m2).

Plastic and MDF panels are cheaper than those made from natural wood, and of the variety of available types, the most expensive is the block house.

Having decided on the type of lining and timber, it is worth considering the need for related elements:

• tools (hammer, screwdriver, drill, spirit level, hammer and pliers, plumb line);
• materials for insulation and waterproofing;
• processing agents (paint, varnish, stain, etc.);
• parts for fastening (staples, anchor screws, wood screws, nails).

Wood cutter sets

Buying cutters individually is expensive; it’s easier to buy a whole set. Of course, it is more expensive than one cutter, but if you buy the same cutters separately, it is much cheaper to buy a whole set. We will talk about such sets today.

What sets of wood cutters exist and how much do they cost - video

offers a variety of carbide cutter sets. We'll talk about five.

1. Includes six edge cutters with radii of 3, 4, 5, 6, 8 and 10 mm, which are equipped with a lower support bearing. Shank - 8 mm.
2. This set includes 12 cutters:
   two edges with radii 6.35 and 9.5 mm and with a support bearing; one figured with two radii 4 mm and with a support bearing;
3. three end diameters of 6, 12 and 16 mm; one end with a diameter of 12.7 mm; one angled (90 degrees) with an outer diameter of 12.7 mm;
4. one groove with a radius of 6.35 mm;
5. one end radius with a radius of 6.35 mm and a support bearing;
6. one end angular (45 degrees) with support bearing;
7. one grooved (dovetailed) with an end diameter of 12.7 mm and an angle of 14 degrees. This set of cutters will be useful for a novice carpenter, as they can perform many jobs on the manufacture of simple pieces of furniture.
8. The third set consists of 16 items and is similar to the reinforced second one. Added end mills with a diameter of 3 and 12.7 mm; groove with a radius of 3.2 mm and a special drill with a diameter of 6.3 mm.
9. The set is aimed at professionals - it consists of 12 cutters of a reinforced design with all the functions of the second set.
10. Finally, the fifth set is similar to the fourth, but consists of 20 cutters of a reinforced design with a greater variety of parameters and the addition of a 9.5 mm wide and 32 mm diameter groove end mill. It is also aimed at the “pros”. In addition to those indicated, Diold has 10 more sets, which are equipped with cutters in various combinations.

Details of working with panel cutters.

Figurine cutters

Using cutters for paneling (or figurine), thin planks of a certain configuration are made, which are used to frame various decorative elements. Panels are most often used for the manufacture of decorative frames, as well as for the design of furniture facades. A paneled element used exclusively for decorative purposes can be cut along the contour of the product. Using milling cutters for panels, it is possible to produce products that simultaneously perform two functions: they act as a decorative element and fix the connected elements together using the “tenon and groove” principle.

On the modern market, various cutters for infill are offered, which involve the production of such a decorative element in one or several passes. When making a panel in several passes, at each stage of the technological process, a layer of material is removed for which the tool used is designed. As a rule, in such cases, not one paneling tool is used, but a whole set of them.

Panel cutters can work in vertical and horizontal planes. Vertical cutters for infill are used to process baseboards and the edges of cornices, which involves processing to a greater depth. Horizontal cutters for infill are distinguished by a larger diameter of the cutting part. They are used to process furniture facades, shelves and door panels. Although cutters of this type can improve processing productivity, they are significantly inferior to vertical cutters in terms of cutting depth. It should be noted that almost no production can do without panel-type cutters.

Milling cutters suitable for making lining using a hand router

Regardless of the class of the tool, that is, professional or amateur hand tools, it uses exclusively end-face cutters. At one of its ends there is a collet (shank) with a diameter of 8 or 12 mm for rigid grip by the chuck, and at the other there is a directly profile cutter up to 50 mm wide. The manufacturing quality of the cutters themselves and the service life of the cutting tool depend primarily on the grade of cutter steel and the manufacturer. Models from well-known brands are always equipped with only durable grades of tool steel.

All cutters for sampling wood are usually divided into two main groups: edge and groove. They are sold both individually and as part of sets. Edge cutters can be easily distinguished from others by a characteristic feature - the presence of a bearing in front of the cutter. There are universal cutters - this is useful to keep in mind for similar operations - for example, in the case of making lining. They cost a little more than single models, but will allow you to save more time on production by reducing the number of passes.

The subtleties of working with a router at home

Having examined the technology that is used in production, we will understand the intricacies of making lining with a router at home.

At the initial stage, you need to stock up on boards planed on a circular saw and jointer (you can immediately buy ready-sawn material or make the necessary blanks yourself). All subsequent operations are performed with rigid fixation of the cutting tool and lumber.

All actions can be reduced to the following sequence:

Making lining with a hand router is not difficult if you stock up on special tools and strictly follow the suggested recommendations.

Source

Edge cutters

Designed for processing the edges of the product. All edge cutters are characterized by the presence of a bearing, which during operation rolls around the edge of the part. In this case, the working (cutting) part is located above or below the bearing.

Straight edge cutters

Straight edge cutters are most in demand when working with templates, and they have an upper or lower bearing. The latter are cheaper, but when they are used, the workpiece is located between the template and the router, which does not allow processing in two passes in depth (with an upper bearing this is possible).

Techniques for working with edge cutters - video

Such cutters are characterized by a working length, a working diameter, and also a bearing diameter (it is not always equal to the working one). For most cases, it is more convenient to choose cutters in which these diameters coincide, which makes it easier to manufacture and attach the template to the workpiece.

Shaped, or molding, edge cutters

They have a great variety. The choice of such cutters is dictated only by the desired edge profile, which is chosen based on the appearance of the product.

Their size, as a rule, is determined by the height of the working part, as well as the largest diameter and radius of curvature that they make. If there are several curves in a profile, then the profile of the largest of them is usually indicated. It is extremely rare, but there are adjustable molding edge cutters. They can adjust the distance between working parts.

Disc edge cutters

They are intended for making a rebate, but unlike straight groove ones, they are based on the edge with a bearing, which is why the groove they select is more accurately located relative to the edge of the workpiece. True, they are also more expensive than straight grooved ones. Often, such cutters are made adjustable to select grooves of different depths or widths. In this case, the set includes bearings of different diameters or a stack of thin cutters on an axis, so that the height is changed by disassembling the cutter and removing excess disks.

How to choose the right cutter. Tips for beginner millers in this video

Shaped edge cutters

They may have a bearing at the end, but the shape of their edges is much more complex than that of shaped edges, and the height is greater. Suitable for making baguettes and processing the edges of panels, skirting boards, and façade frames. Such cutters are also produced without bearings. In this case, they must be worked using a rip fence or a copying sleeve and a template.

Combined frame, or counter-profile, cutters. They are used when processing adjacent edges to create frame joining parts. Such cutters can also be assembled.

Horizontal figurine cutters

Designed for decorative milling of panel edges. Due to their large diameter, weight and cutting force, they are produced exclusively with a 12 mm shank and can only be used on a table, that is, with a stationary mounting of the router. Sometimes such equipment consists of two cutting discs and is capable of processing both sides of the panel in one pass. Such cutters have the largest diameter of all, so when choosing a milling machine you should immediately think about whether you will be making panels. This consideration directly affects the choice of tool based on the diameter of the hole in its base.

Trusted manufacturers

Today, there are hundreds of small and large firms in the construction industry. Experts recommend carefully studying all the nuances before contacting any of them.

The company has established itself as a reliable manufacturer of professional tools. End mills are designed for the manufacture of such products as lining, block house, eurolining. The kit includes two combined elements, a complex profile. This kit is good because it allows you to make a full-fledged eurolining strip in two passes, which can significantly reduce the cost of time and labor.

At all levels between the bearings, discs and nut there are installation spacers, thanks to which it is possible to easily adjust the gap between the discs. This will help adjust the gaps or tension of the tongue-and-groove connection. The carbide solders are soldered to a very high quality, without sagging or leakage of brass, and are made neatly.

"Inveld"

The company has been manufacturing carbide-tipped wood cutters for more than 20 years. One of the company's latest developments is a kit for making eurolining or simply lining. The set consists of two elements. One cuts out the front part, and the second makes the counter part.

The set is supplied in two types of configuration. The first variety is with an 8 mm shank. The second one has a 12 mm shank. This was done in order to work both on low-power milling machines and on more powerful equipment - milling machines. The design is collapsible. You can unscrew the fastening nut and remove the components, replace the bearing or sharpen the knives. Carbide knives, VK8 alloy. Soldered to the shaft using brass. They are easy to sharpen yourself with a diamond tool on the back of the knife.

"Slavic Courtyard"

This manufacturer produces options for four-sided and milling machines.

The Slavyansky Dvor enterprise supplies a wide range of models. They are intended for the production of all types of cladding boards (beams, linings, eurolinings, American boards, block houses). You can choose the type that suits you, either as a set or separately. With replaceable or brazed knives.

Spiral cutters

Spiral cutters are also actively used in furniture production. In appearance and design they are very similar to drills. Like spiral drills, their working part contains grooves, with the help of which chips of waste material are removed from the processing zone. Spiral cutters are divided into the following categories:

• with a downward cut;
• with an upward cut;
• combining both mentioned types.

The main areas of application of spiral-type cutters, which are presented in a wide range on the modern market, are:

• cutting of material;
• formation of elements of various configurations on the surface of solid wood products;
• creating grooves and recesses of various configurations on the surface of wood products.

Among the advantages of using spiral cutters for wood processing are the following:

1. formation of a cut characterized by high purity and precision of processing;
2. significantly less sawdust emissions than when using other tools;
3. low level of noise and vibration during operation;
4. high precision and processing performance when performing plunge milling.

Thus, the variety of cutters that can be equipped with both stationary and manual electrical equipment allows you to successfully perform various technological operations. With the help of such tools, you can not only make lining with your own hands, but also perform many other technological operations to improve your home interior.

Industrial production technology

You will need this knowledge in order to independently make the best decisions when making lining at home. The process of industrial production of lining consists of several stages.

1. Making boards. The logs are sawn on band or disk sawmills into edged boards of specified parameters. The thickness of the board is in the range of 15-25 mm, width 100-150 mm. Specific dimensions depend on the type of lining.
2. Drying lumber. The process takes place in chamber drying, which reduces the amount of waste and minimizes the risks of torsion and cracking of boards.
3. Sorting. Lumber is sorted depending on quality. For the manufacture of lining, boards of at least second grade are selected.
4. Manufacturing of lining. The process takes place on a powerful four-sided planer. By selecting various cutters and knives, four planes are processed in one pass, and the desired profile is immediately created on them.
5. Quality control and product storage.

That’s all the technology is, there is nothing complicated, modern equipment allows you to automate production to the maximum. It is impossible to achieve this at home; you will have to waste much more time making the forcing.

Table. Classes of lining and their description.

Manufacturing eurolining on a milling machine

This is more complex work; you will need solid experience working with woodworking machines. We will tell you about the technology, and select the dimensions of the lining and the profiles of the front surfaces yourself, taking into account the availability of tools and personal preferences.

How does eurolining differ from regular lining?

1. The tongue/groove connection is deeper. Due to this, the risk of seams showing through during a significant reduction in the width of the boards is eliminated, and installation of the sheathing is simplified. It is easier to insert hardware for fastening into a deep groove.
2. The reverse side has one or two slots - the wall surfaces can breathe, static forces are reduced when changing the linear dimensions of the lining. It is as a result of strong static forces that the cladding of a house can warp.

As the initial data, we assume that the boards of the required sizes have already been prepared, the material is sorted and folded in the proper place.

Step 1. Install a cutter on the machine to make a groove and a side decorative chamfer, adjust the depth. To do this, release the ruler, place the end of the board against the knife and, moving the ruler closer or further, find the desired position. Fasten the milling head and ruler with great force.

In order to correctly align all the knives on the head, you need to plan a section of the board as a test. Next, place it again on the cutter and, slowly rotating the head in the opposite direction, check that all the knives are working. You can recognize this by the sound; if everything is normal, then the number of minor touches on the board should correspond to the number of cutters. For example, if the head has four knives, but you only felt three touches, then this means that one knife is not working. Find which one and adjust its position. This is quite difficult to do and will take several attempts. Make sure that the spacer wedges of the knives are pressed firmly against the head.

Step 2. Attach the top and side clamps, set the desired distance. Such stops greatly facilitate the milling process, improve quality and increase labor safety. Pass all the boards on one side.

Step 3. Replace the cutter with a new one; it should cut the groove and remove the decorative chamfer. There is no need to re-adjust the clamps; the width of all boards is the same and did not change during the first pass.

Step 4. Remove the side cutter and release the ruler and clamps. Install a cutter to make recesses on the inside of the lining. The size and number of grooves do not matter; select them at your discretion.

Necessary equipment

First you need to select and prepare a large and powerful machine for work. A practical purchase would be a second machine. Due to the fact that even the most powerful machine will begin to overheat after a certain period of time, giving it the opportunity to rest and cool down will be a mandatory working moment. The required characteristic of the machine is a power of at least one kilowatt. It is required to perform two main functions - cutting and jointing, that is, leveling the wooden surface.

When giving preference to any model, pay attention to the presence of play - a gap in places where parts are adjusted. A high-quality woodworking machine, for example, an American one, does not exceed a width of fifteen to twenty centimeters

But the rulers and cooling system must also be of high quality.

Aluminum tends to leave black marks on wood. There is a possibility of applying stripes to the finished product with a jigsaw. As a result, defects adversely affect the appearance of the material after processing, and the finished lining must be painted when it was possible to get by with colorless varnish. For the operation of the saw, a specialized casing is designed, which is put on the base of the saw in order not to stain the wood, when both the table and the ruler do not have protective devices.

You can make alder lining manually, for example, with a milling cutter or using a circular saw. The milling method is of better quality.

Machine

Milling is used primarily for the production of wood products, but if you purchase additional special knives, you can even process plastic and metal.

The good thing about this tool is that, despite its compact size, you can use it to perform numerous jobs.

The machine is used for making panels and for milling small holes for door handles and hinges. It can be used on door edges, window frames, chairs and other wooden objects.

Manual is available in three main types:

• Lamellar;
• Edge;
• Upper.

The cutters for the lining are installed under the casing of a powerful engine equipped with handles. The struts, fixed to the base plate and support plate, allow the motor to move up and down.

Its weight is compensated by return springs. Therefore, the knife is in a raised position on the frame even before the workpiece is taken out of use. The shank is secured using a lock nut into a collet clamp.

Manufacturing on a machine

• Milling cutters for the production of lining will be needed after work with jointed boards begins. An even cut is made on one side, after which it is necessary to determine the future width of the product.
• Before doing this, it is advisable to inspect all the boards so that they do not turn out to be of the already chosen width. Usually the size of the board is medium - from 7 to 10 cm.
• If you count the number of passes over the knives, you can achieve equal thickness on all boards.
• When the wane is removed, wood remains, which can then be used as slats.
• The next step is to tongue and groove the board around the perimeter. The tenon and groove are cut out. When raising and lowering the table, you can adjust the groove depth. The ruler must always be pressed against the edge of the panel.

Video - production line:

Expenses

Don’t be afraid to experiment, because what you make with your own hands is much more expensive and better than what you buy at the best prices in the store.

Panels made by yourself will not only decorate the house, but will also “nourish” it with the energy of a person who strives to turn his home into a cozy hearth. You just need to prepare the necessary materials and tools - and the new business will definitely be mastered.

List of sources

• luchiefasady.ru
• kubvagonki.ru
• www.novaso.ru
• obinstrumente.ru

How to install

We will divide the whole process into 3 parts:

1. Preparatory work.
2. Frame construction.
3. Fastening the lining to the wall or ceiling.

Remember that it is important not only to adhere to technology, but also to use quality materials and tools. Nails are also different

Nails are also different

Stage 1 – preparation

To begin with, you should stock up on everything you need, the list is shown in the table.

Finishing nails are the best solution for attaching lining

The technology for nailing lining with your own hands requires the presence of a certain set of tools:

A regular hammer will be used for fastening. You need to use small options weighing from 300 to 500 grams;

There is a hammer in almost every home

In order not to damage the lining with a hammer, it is necessary to use a special device - a hammer. With it you can hammer nails without hitting the wood;

A homemade finisher can be made in a few minutes

• The material is cut using a hacksaw with a small tooth size;
• The frame can be attached in two ways. For concrete and brick walls you need a hammer drill and dowels. For wooden surfaces - self-tapping screws and a screwdriver.

Stage 2 - frame construction

Before nailing the lining, it is necessary to build a solid foundation:

First, you need to check the base with a level to find out how crooked your walls are. Next, the lines for the location of the bars are marked. Remember a simple rule - if the lining is mounted vertically, then the frame is positioned horizontally and vice versa;

The easiest way is to sketch out a design diagram in advance to have a clear idea of ​​what it should look like.

A block is attached along the lines; if the walls are smooth, then you can fix it directly to the wall, and if there are unevenness, then it is better to fix the hangers every 50 cm. Then the hangers are bent, the block is placed, leveled and fixed in the desired position. See also the article finishing the kitchen with clapboard.

With the help of hangers, setting the frame level is not difficult

Stage 3 – attaching the trim

We have come to the main stage and will look at how to properly nail the lining. The instructions consist of the following steps:

First, let's figure out how to nail the lining vertically. The first element is placed with a tenon in the corner and secured with nails through the groove; they are located at an angle of 45 degrees so as not to interfere with the joining of the next element.

We drive the nail with gentle blows of the hammer

The work continues simply: the tenon of the next element is inserted into the groove of the previous one, after which the element can be tapped more tightly through a wooden block and secured.

The next plank is nailed in the same way

Now let's look at how to nail the lining in a horizontal position. The most important thing here is the correct location, the groove should always point down and the tenon upward, then moisture will not accumulate in the recesses. The work is carried out from top to bottom, as you need to drive nails into the groove.

Horizontal trim looks great

If we nail the lining over the top, the work will be slightly different. Nails are hammered into the panels in advance so that they do not peek out from the back side. After this, the element is put in place, tapped through a piece of lining, and only after that the nails are hammered through a hammer flush with the finishing surface.

Nails are achieved after sealing the joints

This option can also be used

I hope you have figured out how to nail the lining and how to do it correctly. To make it even clearer, below is a diagram that shows the correct position of the nail, when it holds securely and does not interfere with the joining of the next element.

This is what the fastening technology looks like

And one more option on how to nail eurolining. As you know, it has a very wide tenon, so you can fix elements directly through it. The mounting area is covered with the next panel and everything looks great.

Eurolining can be mounted this way