How to insulate a metal entrance door with your own hands?

Reasons for heat loss in a home, the need to insulate the entrance metal door. The choice of materials for thermal insulation, features of internal and external insulation. Elimination of gaps and thermal protection of the door frame. The nuances of insulating a steel door with a split structure, common insulation errors and ways to solve them.

An entrance door made of metal has many advantages. It serves for a long time, has high strength and reliably protects the home from outside penetration. Despite all its qualities, a metal structure will not make your home warmer, which is why owners of residential premises often have to solve thermal insulation issues on their own. How to insulate a metal entrance door and choose the right materials for thermal protection - further in the article.

Choosing a material for insulating a metal entrance door

You cannot begin work without it, which is why you first need to decide on the best option, having previously examined each of them in more detail and purchase it. There are a large number of different insulation materials on the market, making it quite easy to choose the one that suits the cost and technical parameters. For thermal insulation, you can use not only hard but also soft materials.

Mineral and stone wool

Mineral wool is in quite significant demand on the market among consumers, which has an affordable price, perfectly absorbs noise, has the ability to restore its original dimensions after compression and, due to its soft structure, is easy to use. This insulation withstands temperature fluctuations, providing complete protection of the building from the penetration of cold into it, and it is also environmentally friendly, non-flammable and allows you to vary the installation height without the need for additional cutting.

Mineral wool is supplied for sale in rolls and sheets, which makes it possible to cut blanks of the required size, which are placed in cells created by the stiffening ribs of the door structure itself. To obtain the required thickness of the insulation, you only need to press it down (pressure), which in the end will in no way negatively affect the technical performance.

The disadvantages of mineral wool include softness, which leads to shrinkage over time, but this disadvantage can be easily eliminated by creating stiffening ribs in the door structure, which prevent the material from slipping over a long period. Its significant disadvantage is its poor resistance to the influence of moisture, often acting as condensation, which occurs due to a shift in the dew point inside the door leaf. To perform high-quality insulation and avoid this drawback, it is better to give preference to stone wool.

Unlike mineral wool, it withstands its impact and allows for effective thermal insulation even of the entrance doors of private houses. In another situation, mineral wool may be a suitable option only when insulating structures that are installed in heated vestibules or corridors of apartment buildings, as well as when additionally installing a waterproofing film inside it.

Foam plastic and penoplex

Preference is given to it quite often, since the insulation has insignificant weight, which does not lead to significant weighting of the door. The material has an optimal level of strength and excellent wear resistance, and due to its hygroscopicity, it does not require additional waterproofing. In addition, polystyrene foam has high soundproofing and thermal insulation properties, thanks to which it is possible to reduce noise levels and increase heat retention inside the house, as well as prevent the penetration of cold from the street. When choosing it, you should give preference to penoplex, which, unlike ordinary material, has a higher density, which is why such insulation, even of a finer thickness, has similar qualities as ordinary sheets of standard polystyrene foam. When using it as thermal insulation, it is advisable to additionally seal all seams with polyurethane foam to prevent the formation of cold bridges.

Note! It is not recommended to use ordinary polystyrene foam for insulation, since when heated it can release substances hazardous to health.

Polyurethane foam (polyurethane foam)

Not quite a traditional option for insulating doors, but which also has a number of positive qualities and even surpasses other materials in some respects. Initially, in order to obtain an effective result, you need to be able to correctly use a spray foam gun or the tube supplied with the container, thanks to which you will not only be able to complete the work fully, but also avoid spraying an excessive amount of excess.

The material itself, due to its airy structure, does not significantly increase the weight of the door leaf, withstands temperature changes and exposure to moisture, and if you know certain nuances, it is quite simply applied and evenly fills all voids, including hard-to-reach areas.

Which insulation is better?

The preservation of heat in your home depends on high-quality thermal insulation material. When choosing it, it is important to take into account the design of metal doors and their location.

Polystyrene foam is obtained by foaming (filling with gas) polymers. One of the cheapest materials. It has excellent thermal insulation properties, is not afraid of dampness and retains its shape. Polystyrene foam will retain heat well on the door in the apartment. In a private home it will not be reliable enough, but if it is supplemented with polyurethane foam and foil insulation, it will last for many years. In case of fire, it releases chemical compounds harmful to human health.

For good sound insulation, a slab three centimeters thick is enough.

Expanded polystyrene is a material obtained from polystyrene and other styrene copolymers. More expensive than foam. Moisture-resistant insulation with heat-insulating and sound-proofing properties. Denser than foam plastic, wear-resistant, safe for health. There are fireproof modifications.

Polystyrene is a material obtained by polymerization of styrene. It has dielectric properties, is rigid, has high thermal insulation properties, and is moisture resistant.

The materials listed above are ideal as insulation for the front door of a private house or country house. They provide excellent protection from moisture and frost.

Mineral wool is an inorganic fibrous material. Effective as insulation. In the same price category as polystyrene foam. Depending on the fiber, it is divided into groups: glass wool, slag and stone (basalt). Made from natural non-flammable materials, environmentally friendly. Sold in rolls or slabs. If it is used to insulate a door in a private house, a water-repellent material is required.

Polyurethane foam is a material that belongs to gas-filled polymers. This group includes: foam rubber, ready-made thermal insulation panels, polyurethane foam. Foam rubber has good thermal insulation and sound insulation properties. When burned, it is highly toxic and is a highly flammable substance. The exception is special purpose foam CMHR. It is particularly elastic and fireproof.

Foil-coated isolon, penofol - environmentally friendly material. In the process of its production, foil and foamed polyethylene are used. This is a modern, popular, economical, wear-resistant, moisture-resistant insulation. Has excellent soundproofing properties.

Insulation of the door frame

Insulation of a metal entrance door should begin with the elements of the frame. If the box is made from a corner, then insulation is possible only in the places where the box adjoins the doorway. In this case, the gaps are filled with foam, and the excess insulation is cut off with a construction knife. If the box is made of a rectangular or square pipe, the insulation is placed inside the profile.

The better to insulate

To insulate the door frame, use foam or bulk insulation (sawdust, expanded clay).

Polyurethane foam is used to eliminate gaps between the frame and the doorway, as well as to fill the cavities of frame elements made from profiles.

Bulk insulation is used only for profiled frames. The profile is filled through a technological hole drilled in the upper part of the box. The diameter of the hole should allow the largest fractions of filler to pass through.

This method has a significant drawback: it is impossible to ensure that the entire internal space of the box is filled with bulk materials. As a result of uneven filling, voids are formed that freeze. Therefore, the use of bulk insulation is possible only in production conditions, when assembling the box in the workshop.

Materials and tools

To insulate the box you will need the following tools and materials:

• electric drill;
• metal drills with a diameter equal to the diameter of the nozzle of a cylinder with polyurethane foam;
• polyurethane foam;
• construction knife.

Insulation instructions

To fill the door frame with foam, you will need to prepare technological holes with a pitch of 500 mm. Through these holes, the internal space of the profile is filled with polyurethane foam. Excess foam coming out through the holes must be removed with a construction knife.

The gaps between the door frame and the doorway are cleaned of old insulation, moistened and filled with polyurethane foam. Excess foam is removed using a construction knife, after which the contact point between the box and the wall is masked with putty.

Upholstery process

All edges of the upholstery must be folded inward and secured.
Wooden doors are insulated using many materials. For a long time, cotton wool served as the main insulation material. Despite the fact that it has fairly good thermal insulation properties, a significant drawback of its use is its ability to absorb moisture, which contributes to the development of fungus.

To insulate a wooden door, you need to place it on a flat surface, having first removed it from its hinges. Interfering parts should also be disconnected. The insulation is secured with nails. You can also use glue or a stapler.

Next, you should proceed with installation of finishing materials. In order for the canvas to fit well, you must first clear the places for fastening from the insulation. Then you will need to cut the material and stretch it over the entire area of ​​the canvas. It is best to carry out such work with an assistant. In this way, unwanted accumulations of material can be avoided. If everything is done properly, you should fix the product using a construction stapler. The edges of the upholstery along the entire perimeter must be carefully folded inward and secured. To prevent them from coming out over time, it is better to wrap the material several times.

Important! Foam insulation is glued to the door using liquid nails.

If it is impossible to remove the door from its hinges, the door frame is also covered with leatherette. This will protect the room from the penetration of cold air between the door and the base. To do this, you need to wrap the insulation with leatherette and nail the resulting roller on the side that has a double fold of the material.

It is necessary to monitor the tightness of contact between the door and the insulation. To avoid rapid damage, it is better to use the bottom of the door instead of the threshold for fastening.

Knowing how to carry out internal insulation, external insulation and how to choose insulation, you will significantly reduce the meter readings. In order to achieve the desired result, you just need to follow the tips and recommendations that will help ensure the presence of warmth and comfort in the room no matter the vagaries of the weather.

Eliminating Gaps

Heat loss occurs not only through a metal leaf or door frame. During the installation of the structure, a so-called technological gap is created - a gap between the wall and the box, usually its dimensions are about 2 cm. For insulation work, it is best to use polyurethane foam. Simply covering the cracks with cement is not a solution, since such a mixture is not a heat-insulating material. It does not protect the room from the cold, but shrinks over time.

Thermal insulation of the technological gap must be carried out in the following sequence:

1. From the side of the room, remove the casing in the place where the box comes into contact with the wall. Secure the polyethylene film.
2. Remove the casing from outside the apartment. Moisten the space in the crack with water. You can use a spray bottle. This is necessary so that the polyurethane foam hardens much faster.
3. Apply the first thin layer of foam. Its path should be uniform, without breaks or omissions.
4. After about 20 minutes, when the first layer of foam expands, apply a second ball of it. It is necessary to ensure that the substance does not bleed beyond the perimeter of the door frame.
5. When the foam has completely hardened, remove the polyethylene film that served as protection from inside the apartment.
6. At the end of the work, install the platbands in place.

If the foam appears a little outside the box, it’s not a big deal. It must be carefully cut with a construction knife.

Seal installation

Another weak point in the design in terms of heat loss is the area where the sash comes into contact with the frame. If it does not fit very tightly, a draft will appear. This problem can be eliminated by installing a seal. It is produced in the form of a self-adhesive tape, which can have a different profile (section).

If the gap is small, then an oval or round seal will be useful.

If the gap is more than 3 mm, then it is worth buying a tape with a cross-section in the shape of the letter P.

Before insulating a metal entrance door, in addition to the seal itself, for insulation work you will need to acquire scissors and some kind of solvent to degrease the door.

The scheme of work is as follows:

1. If an old seal was installed on the door, it must be removed and the surface thoroughly cleaned.
2. Degrease the area for the tape using a solvent.
3. Glue the seal around the perimeter of the sash, retreating approximately 3 mm from the outer edge. In this case, the tape must be pressed well to ensure good adhesion (without waves).

Do not pull the tape too tightly while gluing. Otherwise, it will not adhere well to the surface of the door and may come off. It is not recommended to purchase a seal that is too thick, as this may cause the door to open and close poorly.

How to insulate a door frame?

Many people think that to insulate a metal entrance door it is enough to insulate only the leaf. But in fact, the box also needs insulation. If it is made of a metal corner, then insulation can be done only along the perimeter where it adjoins the opening. To do this, just blow out all the cracks with foam. When the substance hardens, the excess can be cut off with a knife.

In the case when the box is made of a square or round pipe, then insulation can be placed inside it.

Suitable for these purposes:

1. Polyurethane foam. It is convenient to seal the gaps between the wall and the frame, as well as fill all the cavities of the door frame.
2. Bulk materials. This could be expanded clay, sawdust. To do this, make a hole in the profile and fill it with filler. If you perform this procedure yourself, then not all voids can be filled with material. Thorough insulation is only possible when the box is manufactured in a factory.

But you can try to do the insulation yourself. To do this, you will need a drill and suitable metal drills, the insulation itself (spray foam), and a knife.

Completing of the work:

1. Holes are made every 50 cm.
2. Using them, the cavity inside the box is filled with foam.
3. All of its excess that has emerged through the holes is cut off with a knife.
4. The gaps between the opening and the box are also filled with foam.
5. When the substance becomes hard, it is cut and puttied.

Internal and external insulation of a metal door will reliably protect the room not only from thieves, but also from frost. You can carry out insulation work on your own by placing suitable material on the outside or inside of the sash. You should also take care of insulating the box and gluing the seal. Only a set of measures will prevent heat loss.

Advantages of thermal protection

Thermal insulation of a wooden door provides a range of benefits that must be carried out.
They consist of improving the indoor microclimate. Such work makes it possible to protect housing from extraneous noise. With their help you can change the design of the structure. Carrying out this work will make the door more reliable.

Do-it-yourself insulation of a metal entrance door

The process begins with the selection of the optimal thermal insulation material, which determines the effectiveness of insulation and its duration.

How to insulate a metal door

Types of insulation:

Penofol

Thanks to the reflective ability of the foil layer, it retains almost all the heat in the room. Used only as additional material.

Insulating a metal door with penofol

Rigid insulation

These include polystyrene foam and expanded polystyrene (penoplex). Their advantage is ease of installation and relatively low price. Since it is not hygroscopic, it does not require additional films. This is the only suitable option for installation in a cottage, country or rural house. Indeed, in this case, the door serves as a barrier to low temperatures and wind, which is not observed in apartment buildings where the door opens into the entrance.

Insulation of a metal door with polystyrene foam and polystyrene foam (penoplex)

Note. When choosing thermal insulation material, give preference to penoplex (expanded polystyrene). It is an order of magnitude denser than polystyrene foam and will provide the door with much more effective insulation.

Soft insulation

This category includes glass wool and mineral (basalt) wool. Their difference is only in the raw materials; in terms of their thermal insulation characteristics, they are not very different. Mineral wool is characterized by environmental friendliness, fire safety, and the ability to vary the installation height without additional trimming.

Cotton wool is sold in rolls or sheets, which makes it possible to cut blanks of the required sizes from it and place them in cells formed by the stiffening ribs of the door itself. To ensure the required height (thickness of insulation), simply press down the material (press cotton wool), the thermal insulation properties will not be affected.

But cotton wool has a drawback that prevents it from being recommended for installation in iron doors for private homes. Because There are different temperatures on different sides of the door, and sometimes the difference is up to 40 °C (-15 outside and +25 in the house). This leads to a shift of the dew point inside the insulation, and the wool gets wet. The effect can be neutralized by installing a hydrobarrier film.

But, nevertheless, professionals do not recommend insulating an iron door with cotton wool in a private house. It can become an acceptable option only if the entrance door to the apartment is insulated, since in this case there is not such a big difference in temperatures (it is much warmer in the entrance than outside).

Insulating a metal door with mineral wool

Inflatable insulation

Presented with polyurethane foam. Spraying makes it possible to fill all the cracks, but has a high price.

Insulation of a metal door with polyurethane foam (PPU foam)

Thermal insulation of luxury metal doors is carried out using three types of materials: foam plastic (main material), penofol (additional), polyurethane foam (filling the voids of the stiffeners and frames).

Note: a set of materials that can be found in stores is of little use for insulating an external metal door, because They use dermantin, foam rubber or synthetic winterizer as insulation.

Working with slopes

It happens that if installed incorrectly, frost regularly appears on the slopes of the front door. In such a situation, it is worth removing the slopes and installing them again.

Insulation of entrance door slopes

First, the surface of the walls is cleaned, primed and the cracks are filled with putty. If the slopes are damaged, replace them with pieces of drywall of a suitable size, and strengthen the corners with paint corners. In general, insulating a metal door is not difficult to do with your own hands: at minimal cost, the result will definitely please the owners and will become obvious in the near future.

Step-by-step instructions for insulating a wooden door in a private house

The work is carried out taking into account the characteristics of the entrance group and the installation technology of the selected insulation.

Tools and materials

In the process of working, the following set of tools, devices and materials is required:

• nail puller, pliers;
• screwdriver, hammer;
• hacksaw, jigsaw;
• tape measure, stationery knife, scissors;
• construction stapler.

It is also necessary to prepare the estimated amount of insulation, sealant, sheathing material and fasteners.

Preparatory work

At the preliminary stage, the following work is performed:

• remove the door leaf;
• unscrew door fittings and hinges;
• remove the casing, if present;
• remove old insulation and sealant residues.

Next, the canvas and box are checked for structural defects, distortions and other defects are eliminated.

Cutting and laying insulation

Based on the measurements, blanks of the required sizes are made. When arranging a frame structure, the voids are tightly filled with layers of insulation. The material is fixed using a construction stapler.

Door trim

Dermantin is mainly used as a finishing layer. The upholstery fabric should be cut taking into account a margin of 10 cm on the sides in order to create the necessary thickening around the perimeter. The upholstery is secured with decorative nails and cord to form a distinctive raised pattern. Next, install the door hardware.

The surface of the door leaf is lined with artificial leather from the inside

Seal installation

To eliminate gaps, use self-adhesive strips or install a harpoon seal. Thanks to the special shape, the product fits as tightly as possible to the base, ultimately eliminating the risk of drafts and reducing the level of heat leakage from the room.

Additional measures and means of hydro- and thermal insulation

For maximum quality insulation of a street door in a private house, the joint around the perimeter of the frame is equipped with dermantine rollers with a foam insert inside. It is recommended to line the surface of the entrance sheet with artificial leather from the inside. From the outside, the structure is sheathed with a material that is highly resistant to aggressive atmospheric influences.

How to insulate a door if it faces the street

In private houses or country houses, there is also a need to insulate an iron street door. Considering that the door is constantly exposed to weather changes and seasonal changes, it is necessary to take a responsible approach to the material that will be used inside the door leaf.

The following materials are suitable insulation for a street door:

These materials have minimal hygroscopicity, so changes in temperature and humidity will not affect their thermal insulation properties.

The process of insulating street metal doors is no different from the process of working with apartment doors.

The metal entrance door, the most reliable and durable design, has one significant drawback - a high level of thermal conductivity. This means that it cools quickly at sub-zero temperatures, allows external cold to pass through and does not retain internal heat well. Due to the interaction of internal and external temperatures, condensation appears on the surface. As you know, moisture is one of the causes of premature corrosion that can destroy a metal structure. The only way to eliminate this drawback is to reduce thermal conductivity through insulation. How to insulate a metal entrance door, and what materials are best used for this purpose, we will consider in detail in this article.

Stages of plating an iron model

The sequence of actions when covering an old door depends on its design. If the design is more modern and the metal panels are attached to the base with screws, the insulation is done internally. When starting internal insulation, we remove the metal structure and place it on a work surface. Unscrew the screws and remove the metal panel (to ensure that the screws unscrew well, lubricate them with machine oil). Using a tape measure, take the dimensions of the internal cells of the door.

Carefully measure the insulation material and cut it off. Be sure to cut out a place for the door lock and peephole. For old doors, polystyrene foam or foil-lined stone wool are great. We treat the inner surface of the old structure with glue (liquid nails) and glue the prepared insulation. If there are any gaps between the old door and the insulation, fill them with foam. You must work carefully, squeezing out the mounting foam in small portions. It is important to ensure that it does not get on the bolt lock mechanism. For additional sound insulation, we lay foil insulation between the insulation and the metal sheet. We cover the structure with a metal sheet and screw in the screws.

If the old door is made by fixing metal panels by welding, then we proceed to insulate the old door using the external method. We prepare wooden blocks 20 (30) x 20 mm. We measure the parameters and cut the slats to the required length. Using a drill, we make holes for future fastening in the metal sheet. We assemble the base from prepared wooden blocks and fasten it to a metal sheet with self-tapping screws.

We prepare insulation according to the specified dimensions. We line and glue the insulation into the cells between the slats. We fix the MDF panel or board with screws. Additionally, for sound insulation, the door can be treated with leatherette from the outside or inside. To do this, we bend the leatherette and fix it with staples. Lubricate the lining and hem of the leatherette with glue (liquid nails) and press firmly against the metal sheet. This work is painstaking. At the last stage, we install door locks, handles, and a peephole. We return the finished door to its place.

When covering a single-layer metal door, it is necessary to measure the cells between the stiffeners. We cut the inner material to the specified size. We quickly glue the insulation into the cavity. We eliminate cracks and small gaps using polyurethane foam. We decorate with MDF panel.

Without dismantling

Insulation without dismantling is carried out in three ways. The first is suitable for metal doors with removable panels. To do this, unscrew the screws, starting from the bottom, moving to the top of the canvas. We do not unscrew all the screws and place the metal door on a stand. Carefully advance the insulation treated with glue (liquid nails) and fix it. Foil-coated isolon is suitable for this method. We screw in the screws. The door is ready.

The second method is suitable for solid metal doors. We make holes on top, after making sure that there are no more holes or gaps. We take any crumbly insulation (non-flammable bulk wool, granulated polystyrene foam, vermiculite, sawdust). We pour it into the holes and tap the door to ensure that the cavity is completely filled. This method is completely unsuitable for doors with deadbolt locks. After filling, put plugs on the holes.

The third method is external insulation. We completely follow the step-by-step method of fastening using the external method. You can stick insulation on the inside surface of the doors.

Beautiful ideas

The appearance of the front door always emphasizes the status of the owner. Therefore, in a private home the requirements are especially high. Here it is important to take care of a decent image. The market for metal doors is saturated with a variety of products. Another good thing is that doors can be ordered according to a personal project.

And yet, how nice it is to work on the design yourself! We offer several ideas for decorating metal doors with your own hands. The design of a door in an apartment is interesting because the outside can be decorated so as not to attract other people's attention. The simplest, most affordable way is to decorate a metal door with bright fittings. You can attach new numbers to the outside, add stylized handles, hinges, and locks.

For those who prefer natural materials, we can recommend covering the inside of the door with MDF panels or simple wooden slats. The design and color of the metal door of a private house, as well as the shape, depend on the style in which the house or cottage is built. For fittings, you can use forged parts, stained glass windows, glass inclusions. And instead of a modern bell, you can hang a knocker or gong.

Which of the tools

In addition to the insulation itself, you will also need tools. Minimum standard set:

• roulette;
• a flat board, lath or metal ruler;
• knife (stationery or kitchen);
• screwdriver;
• hacksaw or jigsaw;
• hammer;
• screwdriver or drill;
• pull out;
• furniture stapler.

It is possible that in some situations other devices may be needed. You should also prepare fittings and screws. Now we insulate wooden doors with our own hands according to the instructions below.

We prepare the necessary

First, let's do the preparatory work. Carefully remove the door from its hinges using a pry and lay it on a flat surface. Next, remove all the fittings and put them aside. If there is internal lining, carefully remove this layer as well.

Improving the characteristics of Chinese products

The Chinese-made door is a non-demountable structure. To insulate it, remove the door and place it horizontally. We remove the handles, peephole, locks. Then we begin to attach the frame and stiffeners to it, both from the inside and from the outside. Therefore, we choose a wooden beam with a thickness of 20 * 20 mm, or more (we start from the thickness of the insulation material). If desired, you can weld a metal base, attach it with self-tapping screws or weld it to the door leaf, and fill the joints with polyurethane foam.

The next step is laying insulation. If fibrous materials are selected (mineral wool, stone wool), we lay out a water-repellent material larger in size than the base cavities, approximately 200 mm, secure with glue (liquid nails) and line the wool, having previously cut out a canvas slightly larger than the size of the base cells, and cover with another layer of water-repellent material. We fold the edges of the film tightly onto the top layer and secure with tape.

We cover the insulation with foil isolon or penofol with the foil side facing the room. This will improve the soundproofing qualities of the door. Polystyrene foam, expanded polystyrene, polystyrene, foil-coated isolon do not need waterproofing, since they themselves have water-repellent properties. Next, use a tape measure to measure the distance between the stiffeners, cut the insulation a little larger than necessary to avoid the formation of a cavity between the insulation and the base of the door. We glue the insulation into the cavity with glue (liquid nails).

We coat the base attached to the surface with mounting foam at the joints. The next step is to decorate the structure with an MDF sheet, panel or alternative material. It is important to remember that the decorative panel must be attached from the bottom up. We secure it, install locks, a peephole and handles, and hang the door. Now the door keeps the house warm and also protects from noise.

Tips and tricks

The following recommendations should be followed:

• It is best to insulate a plastic door with glass, using an additional double-glazed window;
• it is necessary to pay equal attention to both the insulation of the canvas and the thresholds and the perimeter of the doorway;
• standard Chinese metal doors immediately need to replace the insulation.

The front door requires special attention when protecting from the cold. The entire perimeter should be insulated, and the door should be closed tightly and quietly using a seal. The insulation process for doors made of plastic and metal with wood is different.