How to make a kitchen spatula from wood?

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There is no such thing as too much kitchenware and accessories - any housewife will tell you this. In addition, all sorts of blades, holders, and other items are always lost, broken, or out of order. Homemade wooden spatulas for the kitchen are the best gift. And if these spatulas are properly polished and covered with oil or wax, they will serve for a long time and flawlessly. The manufacturing process may seem complicated and will require a lot of time and effort. But all the costs will be more than compensated by the joy of the loved one who will be presented with such a gorgeous gift.

Workshop – Making a wooden carved kitchen spatula “Primrose”

Since ancient times, people have been decorating their home, household items, and kitchen utensils! Spinning wheels, dishes, spoons were decorated not only with paintings, but also with carvings! handmade
carved wooden . To make a carved kitchen spatula, take a linden board 70 mm wide, 20 mm thick, 300 mm long, plan the ends to a cone, bring one end of the workpiece (the handle of the spatula) to 30 mm, and leave the other wide. We plane the flat part of the workpiece, trim the wide part (blade) to 6 mm. leaving the narrow part of the workpiece (handle) - 20 mm. We have a linden blank (baklusha) for making a carved kitchen spatula!

We make markings: mark the center along the length of the blade and mark the border of the handle and blade.

Using any suitable circle, we mark a smooth transition from the blade to the handle and mark the handle of the blade.

To make such a simple product, I do not consider it advisable to use a power tool (jigsaw, drill). Armed with a sharp semicircular chisel of a suitable size, with a comfortable handle, let's start carving wood! First, we select, marked in pencil, a smooth transition from the blade to the handle, then we turn the workpiece over onto its end, fix it, and cut off the excess with a flat chisel. On the other side of the workpiece we do the same.

If you want to hang a spatula, make a through hole using a semicircular chisel of a suitable size.

Using a semicircular chisel, at an angle, from the center marked with a pencil, we begin to cut.

Carefully remove the chamfer from the shoulder of the blade to the first notch.

Using a corner, trimming the edge of the handle, we separate the design and make the handle curly.

Using a straight chisel and an oblique knife, we trim the edge, making the design more prominent.

From the center of the handle, we cut the leaf with a corner, separating it from each other.

Use a semicircular chisel to round the end of the handle.

Using a semicircular chisel, cut out four petals. We separate them from each other with a corner.

Use a semicircular chisel to chamfer the tip of the handle. From the outside we separate the petals with a corner.

Using a straight, wide chisel, sharpen the end of the blade and grind it.

We made a wonderful carved kitchen spatula. To the delight of the beloved and to the surprise of the guests.

Cooking utensils

Kitchen utensils are the main attribute of the kitchen, which were used by our ancient ancestors. Utensils for cooking, for serving the table and eating dishes, utensils for drinks, cutlery - absolutely any piece of utensils allows you to turn an ordinary meal into a pleasant and comfortable time spent at the table with the whole family.

Once upon a time, it was enough to have one or two items in the kitchen that were used for any culinary task. Now you can buy dishes for different purposes: pots, frying pans, stewpans, frying pans for cooking, tureens, gravy boats, plates, bowls, salad bowls, for serving, glasses and glasses for various drinks.

Source: www.olx.ua

Lesson 3. Kitchen spatula

The spatula (Fig. 36) is your first practical product.
Every housewife needs it. And of course, she will be pleased to hold in her hands, while preparing food, a product decorated with carvings. The beautiful things that surround us lift our spirits, and you will be happy that you are creating this beauty.

To make a kitchen spatula you will need a piece of wood with an area of 250 x 60 mm and a thickness of 8 mm. There should be no cracks, knots or other defects on it. If it is well planed, then sanding it is not recommended, since when sanding, small abrasive pebbles are separated from the sandpaper and rubbed into the surface of the wood. When cutting, they contribute to the rapid dulling of the knife.

To transfer the image of a shoulder blade onto a board, you will need a piece of tracing paper with dimensions equal to this board. Place it on the shoulder blade template and trace along the outline. (The template for this product is shown in Fig. 50.) After this, glue the tracing paper onto a sheet of thick paper and cut along the contour with scissors. You will receive your template.

Now place it on the board and trace the outline of the shoulder blade (Figure 37). Save the template. It will serve you more than once.

Now you have to cut out this product. Three methods are offered:

hand jigsaw;
jigsaw;
manual hacksaw followed by processing along the contour.

The most preferable of them is cutting with a jigsaw - quickly, cleanly and without much physical effort.

In the absence of jigsaws, both electric and manual, you are left with only the third processing method. We will consider it in detail. The first thing you need to do is, stepping back 2 mm from the contour line of the blade, draw cut lines (Fig. 38). Then press the workpiece with a clamp, placing it on the edge of the table (Fig. 39).

Using a hand saw, make cuts as shown in Fig. 40, a (arrows indicate sawing directions). After this, wring out the clamp, place a backing board on the table (so as not to damage it), place the spatula on it, pressing it with your left hand. Use a semicircular chisel to process the blade around the perimeter (Fig. 40, b). Then, marking the angle of the blade on the edges and the length of the blade on the sides (Fig. 41), use a flat chisel to cut the corners on the working part of the kitchen spatula, as shown in Fig. 42.

After this, use sandpaper to sand all treated surfaces. If the unevenness is large, then before grinding it is necessary to work with a file: semicircular on radii and flat on straight lines.

This completes the production of the blade. You can start marking patterns. Start by drawing a vertical center line. Let me remind you that the center line divides the image of the object in half. It can also be called the axis of symmetry. If you fold an object along this axis, then the weight of the points on one side should coincide with the points on the other. Nature tries to make everything symmetrical.

To draw the center line, place a ruler on the product and measure the width of the blade at the top. Divide the resulting size in half and place a dot on the shoulder blade (Fig. 43, a). Do the same at the bottom of the object. Connect the resulting points with a line. It will be axial.

Then, using the template, measure the distance from the top edge of the blade to the hole. It will be 12 mm. Transfer this measurement to the product and mark it with a small line. There will be a hole here. We will mark the holes with a cross, and not with a circle of a certain diameter, since you will choose the diameter of the holes yourself, depending on the location of the product.

Now, in the same way, take the measurement from the center of the hole to the beginning of the square and transfer it. It will be 11 mm. Place a check mark. Next, the dimensions are transferred in the following sequence (Fig. 43, b):

from the beginning of the square to the end of it - 24 mm;
from the end of the square to the beginning of the rectangle - 5 mm;
from the beginning of the rectangle to its end - 50 mm;
from the end of the rectangle to the beginning of the small square - 4 mm;
from the beginning of the small square to the end of it - 19 mm.

After this, from the marks on the vertical axis, sequentially, from left to right, set aside the dimensions that you take from the template (Figure 43, c):

large square - 11 and 11 mm (I and II);
a rectangle that tapers slightly towards the bottom - 11 and 11 mm at the top (III), 9.5 and 9.5 mm at the bottom (IV);
small square - 9.5 and 9.5 mm (V and VI).

After these steps, connect the ends of the resulting segments (Fig. 43, d). In the squares, mark the “stars” that you already know from the first lesson. Only here they are enclosed in a rhombus inscribed in a square (Fig. 44).

Start marking, as usual, with the center lines. You already have a vertical axis, draw a horizontal one (Fig. 45, a), connect points A and B, B and C, C and D, D and A with segments (Fig. 45, b). You now have eight triangles. Write a “pyramid” into each of them (see “ABC”), and you will get a new interesting figure, although the novelty here lies only in the reversal of the “asterisk” (Fig. 45, c).

In a rectangle, the pattern is formed by a combination of “viteyki” and “diamonds” (Fig. 46). To mark it, divide each half of the rectangle, divided by the center line into two parts, in half and place points ABCD (Fig. 47, a). Connect them with straight lines (Fig. 47, b). Then mark the entire height of the rectangle, which is 50 mm, in 5 mm increments and draw horizontal lines, as in Fig. 47, v. The result is squares in which you can easily enter the “viteyka”. “Diamonds” form on their own (Fig. 47, d).

Now you can start carving. Don't forget that you first need to mentally determine the tattooing points. If in doubt, contact ABC.

With regard to this pattern, only one explanation is necessary. This applies to the small triangles located in the corners of the rectangle in Fig. 47, g. It must be cut out the same way you cut the “pegs”. The point of tattooing is, naturally, the top of the triangle.

When you have completed the pattern, drill a hole whose center you marked earlier. To do this, you first need to prick the center of the hole with an awl.

When drilling, use a backing board to avoid damaging the table. Feed the drill slowly, without jerking, trying to keep the drill, or rather the drill, perpendicular to the drilling plane (that is, at an angle of 90°) (Fig. 48).

Solid fabric of different shapes

Rectangular and trapezoidal products are needed for working with large pieces of food. Round-shaped options are suitable for moving ingredients or pieces of a finished dish: laying out, arranging portions. When choosing, it is important to pay attention to the length and width of the tool’s working area.

The more compact the product, the more convenient it is to work with small ingredients. The width of the product determines its suitability for dishes of a certain format: in extremely limited space it is easier to manipulate a compact accessory.

Kitchen utensils made of wood

With the advent of the era of Teflon pans and pots, wooden cutlery has become firmly established in our kitchens. Although it must be said that wooden utensils were even more popular in the old days, due to their cheapness and ease of manufacture.

Indeed, anyone can plan a wooden spatula for a frying pan. And you don’t need any special tools for this. But if you need to make a large set of products for the kitchen, for example, for sale, then there is a need to somehow optimize and speed up the process. In this case, it is advisable to use a power tool for work.

Beech is the best material; walnut, maple, pear, or birch are less commonly used. In any case, conifers are not suitable for contact with food. First, you need to prepare a thick block of wood; gluing the workpiece is not recommended.

1. Draw the shape of the edge of the blade on the face of the block. If the thickness allows, then it is more convenient to immediately outline several parts one after another, with a gap for sawing. Using a band saw, we cut along the markings without going beyond the lines. In extreme cases, parts can be cut out with a hand-held electric jigsaw, but this will take noticeably longer. For the master, homemade grinding machines and devices.

2. We adjust the dimensions and sand the cut lines using a grinding machine, or manually with emery cloths.

3. We continue to saw the workpiece along all the marking lines.

4. We collect several parts into one bag and secure the sandwich with adhesive tape on all sides. On the upper side of one part we draw the outline of the blade of the shape you need. To make it easier, it is better to first draw the part on paper, cut out the template with scissors, then apply it to the surface and outline it.

5. We cut out the parts in a different projection on a band saw, or using a jigsaw. When working with a jigsaw, it is more convenient to fix the workpiece with a clamp to the edge of the table, finish it to the middle, unfold it and clamp it again with a clamp.

6. We also process the edges of the parts in a bag secured with tape.

7. Next, on each individual blade we round off the sharp ribs on the handle. It is clear that such work is best done using a sanding drum and a sanding disc.

8. For amateurs, there are soft sanding discs for drills in stores, but no one has canceled sanding bars yet. On the topic of the article: sanding wooden products by hand.

Advantages and disadvantages

We practically don’t think about the advantages of wood products for the kitchen - we just use them with pleasure. But every housewife will be pleased to know that her tools are safe and will never spoil the signature dish. Here are a few reasons for using natural utensils:

When using a wooden spatula while cooking, there is no chance of getting burned because wood has low heat conductivity and, unlike metal, it does not heat up.
Such utensils do not scratch dishes, because wood is, in a sense, a malleable and soft material. This makes it possible to use it for cooking in pots and pans with non-stick and Teflon coating.
Environmentally friendly - unlike plastic and other newfangled materials, natural solids do not emit toxins and do not affect the taste of dishes. True, for this you will need to purchase a spatula, which was definitely not treated with any impregnations in production.
Large selection of shapes, sizes and designs. You can buy carved or painted spatulas, decorated with burnt-out designs, with or without slots.
Low cost, not to mention the fact that such a thing can be made with your own hands from a small plank - it will be almost free.

Wood products are considered hypoallergenic and safe for human health.

However, products made from natural materials also have their drawbacks. For example, such blades absorb odors, are stained by some products, and can warp and even crack from prolonged exposure to water. And over time they darken. Although these disadvantages are easy to eliminate. To prevent the spatula from absorbing moisture, it must be wiped dry after washing; to protect it from smoldering or fire, it must be stored away from open fire. And simple rules of care will help you preserve the attractive appearance of your favorite instrument longer.

Making a wooden carved kitchen spatula “Primrose”

To make a carved kitchen spatula, take a linden board 70 mm wide, 20 mm thick, 300 mm long, plan the ends to a cone, bring one end of the workpiece (the handle of the spatula) to 30 mm, and leave the other wide. We plane the flat part of the workpiece, trim the wide part (blade) to 6 mm. leaving the narrow part of the workpiece (handle) - 20 mm. We have a linden blank (baklusha) for making a carved kitchen spatula!